I have spent the majority of my life under the impression that my heritage is Irish. However, following my trip in November 2017 to Ireland, I was startled to learn that I was actually Scottish. Certainly not the worst news a person could receive, but shocking to say the least. Thus, my peaked interest motivated me to find out more about my background and ancestors.
Car Rental:
For some reason, there is a lot of negative and pessimistic rumors surrounding car rentals in Europe. Quite frankly, I just don’t get it. I would highly recommend renting a car anytime you plan to travel around the country given that time permits. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been stuck or left depending on others for transportation and felt frustrated at my situation. I swore to myself – no more!
While you can easily wait until you arrive at your destination to rent a car, you’re better off booking ahead of time; it’ll save you money in the long run too. For our car rental needs in Scotland, we looked to Green Motion. My purpose here is not to dissuade you from utilizing their services, but to simply heed warning to what I simply chalk up to my own terrible luck. I’ve always had great experiences using Expedia, so I thought, why should this be any different? Upon our arrival to the rental station though, they refused to honor the added insurance, unlimited mileage, and wanted to charge more for my husband to drive because the reservation was in my name. The weirdest part of this situation is that they also refused to accept my credit card because “the numbers were not raised.”
All laughing matters aside, what should have taken half an hour tops, ended up taking two hours and set us way behind schedule. The majority of that time was spent on the phone trying to get a refund from Expedia and arguing with the staff at Green Motion to accept our only means of payment. In the end, they placed a $200 liability hold on our card which was refunded following our return of the car. We’ve never experienced issues like this before when renting a car, so I’ll simply call it a fluke and move on.
Communication
Interestingly enough, there are three official languages spoken in Scotland: English, Scottish, and Scottish Gaelic. With that in mind, you’ll find that the vast majority of residents prefer English as their primary language. More importantly, you can gauge their language preference by how they say “hello” or “good afternoon.” Overall, the Scottish are very friendly and welcoming people. We didn’t encounter one person who wasn’t automatically smiling upon our arrival! And they love to talk about their heritage and culture – something you don’t experience everywhere you go! Don’t be afraid to start a conversation with anyone you meet, just be prepared for a lengthy chat.
Edinburgh
Things to Do: The heart, and capital, of Scotland, Edinburgh is an elegant and welcoming city for those adventurous enough to give her a chance.
Edinburgh Castle – The focal point for downtown Edinburgh, the Castle is the number one tourist attraction in the area. And well worth the price too! While 18.50 pounds per person (almost 24 USD) may seem like a lot of money, but I promise you that there is an abundance of activities for all ages of the family that make it worth your time and money. For just 3 more pounds per person, you have an audio-tour guide option too. Upon entry, the ticket salesman suggested we dedicate at least two hours to fit everything in. And yet, my experience would suggest that you set aside 3-4 hours instead. We arrived at 2 PM, just 3 hours before closing time, but only had the pleasure of viewing about 3/4 of the property. Contrary to my own beliefs, the workers began “closing shop,” as they say, before the designated and specific closing time. In order to fill your money’s worth, I would recommend starting your day in Edinburgh instead of ending it, like we did. Note: the audio guide will require additional time on your part in order to listen to every fact in each section. $$
Greyfriar’s Bobby – This popular statue is widely-visited by all tourists alike! Greyfriar’s Bobby was a Skye Terrier who was known for protecting his owner’s graveside for 14-years before passing away. It is said that “booping” the statue’s nose will bring you good luck!
Greyfriar’s Kirkyard – At this point, there shouldn’t be any surprises regarding my love and admiration for all things Harry Potter related. With that being said, when given the opportunity to visit J.K. Rowling’s inspiration for names and characters in her books, I simply had to jump on the opportunity. Cue: Greyfriar’s Kirkyard. My first bit of advice regarding your visit here would be to double (and triple) check the times and days the site is open. Long story short – I moved parts of my whole trip around to visit on the days listed as “open” online, but later learned that the graveyard was open year-round. Nonetheless, the trip was definitely worth it. The graveyard extends in every direction, with about 10 gravestones that sparked Rowling’s inspiration for characters like Professor McConagall and the infamous, Tom Riddle. In order to find all 10 gravestones, I would recommend conducting a Google Search for the specific coordinates and directions. Or, if time permits, don’t be afraid to walk the perimeter and grounds at your leisure. If you’re visit during the rainy season, make sure to pack your rubber boots as the ground is extremely muddy. There is a church on-site, with daily masses available for your viewing or your worship needs. The grounds are free to wander about, but tours are available if you’d like to learn more about the history of the graveyard versus meandering around for your Harry Potter needs.
Royal Mile – Also commonly referred to as Victoria Street, due to its direct connection to the Royal Mile, this street is widely-known as the inspiration for Diagon Alley in Harry Potter. I hope by now that you are starting to notice a common theme! The Royal Mile offers row-after-row of shoppes in the Old Centre of town. The street totals a mile in length with shoppes and pubs inter-mingled with one another.
Museum Context – One of the many Harry Potter related stores located along the stretch of the Royal Mile, Museum Context provides Pothead enthusiasts with a plethora of memorabilia for your every Harry Potter need. If you’re worried about bringing your souvenir home, you do have the option of shipping it directly to your home or buying directly from their online site.
National Museum of Scotland – By far, my favorite visit to a museum in all of my worldly travels! The best piece of advice, when traveling, that I could offer you would be to always expect the unexpected. Our intentions for visiting were purely educational. That is, we were hoping to learn more about the history of what makes Scotland, Scotland. We didn’t plan to spend too much time there, but we also had no clue that it was seven stories large and covers the expanse of Scotland’s history since, literally, its physical formation years millions of years ago.
The museum itself offers free entry, with a donation box immediately upon your entrance, of course. We had initially planned to spend two hours here, but spent close to five and barely scratched the surface of its grandeur. There are two separate cafes on premise, with a coat check and gift shop on the bottom-most floor. This museum is an excellent place to bring children of all ages with multiple interactive learning activities tucked into every nook and cranny. No space is left untouched. If you plan to visit, I would highly recommend starting early in the day and dedicating at least a half-day, if not the full day, to fully capture everything it has to offer.
Royal Yacht Britannia – Possibly the most ironic tourist attraction in Edinburgh, the Royal Yacht Britannia once transported the Royal British family around the globe, now rests at Ocean Terminal in Edinburgh. Unlike past Royal Yachts, the Britannia is the only one that was decommissioned then turned into a museum. The others, sadly, now rest at the bottom of the ocean – their exact location remains unknown. The best part of this story is how the Yacht ended up in Edinburgh versus in Great Britain. The Royal family appreciated that she would stay afloat in the water if she remained docked in Edinburgh compared to other possible retirement sites.
Be sure to give yourself plenty of time here – we nearly spent three hours scouring each deck. To the tune of 16.50 pounds per person (about 21 USD), each ticket includes a hand-held audio guide available in multiple languages. The tour is self-paced, which was very refreshing after being hurried out of the Castle days prior, with various photo opportunities throughout. Both the staff and audio-guide are very informative! Located on one of the top decks, you will find the Royal Team Room. $$
Royal Deck Tea Room – Despite the slow-moving wait staff, the view from the Tea Room provides viewers with a panoramic view of the harbor where the Britannia now rests. The menu varies from freshly-made pasties, cakes and limited lunch items as well. The perfect place to relax and enjoy the views – plus, look at their fancy hot chocolate dashed with its own chocolate-shaped Britannia. $$
Scott Monument – While it may not look too expansive from an outsider’s perspective, the Scott Monument totals 287-steps from the bottom-most level all the way to the top-most point. These steps are broken into three levels with breaks in between – definitely helpful in trying to catch your breath in-between flights of stairs. The historical society in charge of the monument recently started conducting guided-tours every half hour. The tour begins on the first level with the history of the monument’s construction and completion in 1840. The very top of the structure provides a 360, panoramic view, of Old Town Centre. Cost of entry equals 8 pounds per person (roughly 10 USD). $
St. Gile’s Cathedral – Rated one of the top tourist attractions in Old Town Centre, St. Gile’s Cathedral was built in the 12th century and is known as the “Mother Church of the World.” In its infancy, the church became the focal point of the Scottish Reformation and now welcomes visitors from around the globe. Entry is “free,” but there is a 2 pound fee (roughly 2.50 USD) if you wish to take pictures.
The church is massive and takes around an hour to walk around the bottom level. There is the option to take a guided tour along the top tower, but costs 6 pounds per person (almost 8 USD). Cash required!
For the 2 pounds it costs, taking pictures is completely worth it! Trust me, they do monitor who pays and who doesn’t. Take it from me, don’t mess with the church officials!
Underground Vault Tours – I think it’s fair enough to say that my face in the second picture pretty much says it all! In reality though, the tour itself was fine. I’m a baby when it comes to ghost stories – even ones that are told in the middle of the day. Due to my natural sense of wonder, yet my disdain for things that go bump-in-the-night, we opted for the afternoon tour which lasted about 60-minutes. The tour itself, to the tune of 12 pounds per person (about 15 USD), started in Old Centre and leads willing-tourists into the underground vaults. There are many different tour options, ranging from mid-morning all the way into the wee hours of the night. The price of the tour varies depending on how scared you want to feel by the end of it. We opted for the mid-afternoon tour that was supposed to be historic-based, but left me jumping out of own skin! I would definitely recommend not to bring young children or anyone else who is easily scared. Myself, including. $$
Writers’ Museum – When given the opportunity, I always find myself touring the homes and birth places of famous, and not-so-famous, writers. What English teacher and literature-enthusiast wouldn’t? Edinburg is certainly no exception to this rule. The birthplace for Robert Louis Stevenson, known mostly for The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, Scotland is also home to writers such as Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns. There are four levels to this house-turned-museum, with each floor dedicated to the life and publications for each writer. The ground floor, or entry-way, also houses a unique gift shop and other items from these writer’s personal lives.
Surgeon’s Hall Museum – Due to the sensitive nature of its contents, you are not permitted to take photos anywhere in the building. With every relationship there is give and take. Because my husband is a science teacher, it fell under my wifely-duties to humor him by visiting this museum. In other words, this wasn’t my cup of tea. Each floor is dedicated to an intricate component of the workings and history of the medical profession. The exhibits are comprised of portraits, diagrams, and real-life specimens with one floor entirely dedicated to the “abnormal.” Not for the faint of heart or for those who are easily squeamish. If nothing else, it does at least provide fascinating information! Entry costs 7.50 pounds per person (almost 10 USD) – student discounts available! $
Notable Attractions:
If time, and money, permits, here is a list of other adventures to experience while in Edinburgh:
Camera Obscura & World of Illusions
Places to Eat:
Elephant House – My initial interest in the Elephant House was based purely on the ability to brag about visiting the “birthplace” of Harry Potter. The restaurant/tea-house is within two-minutes walking distance from Greyfriar’s Kirkyard. Makes sense though, right? We stopped in to grab a spot of afternoon tea, but the lunch-menu was just too inviting to pass up! Because of its notoriety, the place is packed to the brim with other Harry Potter-enthusiasts. If you’re patient enough, a table or booth will eventually open up. Since you’re there anyways, I would recommend a stop by the women’s restroom for some lewd, but interesting, fan-fiction art worth your time too. $
The Tea Rooms – Located within Edinburg Castle, the tea rooms offer a splendid pick-me-up while touring the Castle itself. You have the option of ordering from a full lunch-menu, or afternoon tea/coffee and pastries. A nice stop to get away from the hustle-and-bustle while touring the grounds. $$
The Royal Mile Tavern – The name suggests its easy, and convenient location along the Royal Mile. My husband and I stumbled across this place while walking back to the car-park late one evening. There are roughly 10 beers on tap, with the option of a full-bar too; complete food-menu with reasonably entrees. We both order the “Bangers and Mash” – when in Rome, right? It did not disappoint! The Tavern turns into a a live music bar after 9 PM. While this limits the amount of downstairs seating, feel free to find a table upstairs where you can still enjoy the sounds from below! $
Maki Ramen: Sushi & Noodle Bar – We were lucky enough that this bar was located directly across the street from our Air B&B; both convenient and delicious. My favorite combination! This restaurant offers both sushi and ramen menus – also a convenience if you live in a divided household like mine. The sushi is steep, but the ramen options are reasonably priced. The most interesting aspect of this places is that it offers traditional Japanese floor-seating. $$
Scott’s Kitchen – A nice pit-stop for an afternoon cup of tea or a great place to grab a quick, but filling, traditional Scottish breakfast. Located on the second floor, or street-level depending on which hill you’re standing on, just off Victoria Street. Open for breakfast, lunch, and, on special occasions, dinner too. $
City Restaurant – Directly across the street from Surgeon’s Hall, City Restaurant is designed to resemble most typical American-like diners, but with traditional Scottish food instead. The food is cheap, but delicious, and large in portion-size too!
Accommodations: Unfortunately, we had the absolute worst luck with our Air B&B in Edinburgh, despite my relentless research before our arrival. Thus, I can’t offer much in the way of advice for accommodations while in Edinburgh. We were so put off by our Air B&B, and their carefree attitude in dealing with the situation, that we deleted our account and swore-off all future business with them.
North of Edinburgh
Things to Do: A quaint seaside town, just an hour and a half Northeast of Edinburgh. The town is small and quiet, yet inviting, and offers a beautiful view of the Eastern coast of Scotland. If you’ve rented a car, I would definitely recommend arriving early to avoid both traffic and the tourists. On the off chance you didn’t rent a car – not to worry! There are a plethora of day-tours available that leave directly from Edinburgh. In either case, the views and history alone are worth making the trip!
St. Andrews Cathedral – The Cathedral ruins are spread out over the vast majority of the town located closest to the coast. It’s impressive to think how massive this Cathedral used to stand! The grounds itself are free to wander around, with a visitor centre located to the Eastern side, nearest the University. Entry costs 5 pounds per person (6.50 USD), but provides a unique, up-close view of the preserved architecture as well as entry to the top of David’s Tower (pictured below). To reach the top of the tower, you must climb 160 steep steps – the steps are closely confined and slippery so be careful! You have the option to pay for just the tower, which offers a 360 degree view of the immediate area. If you’re not interested in the history of the area, at least consider paying for the view! $
St. Andrews Castle – The ruined castle stands along the Western coast of St Andrews, within a minute walk from the Cathedral. Individual tickets cost 6 pounds per person (roughly 7.75 USD), or the option to buy a joint/combination ticket with St. Andrews Cathedral for 9 pounds per person (just over 11 USD). The second option is your best bet! Each tour includes an audio guide, in a variety of language options, as well as signs written in English throughout the inside portion of the tour. This section provides an intimate, detailed, view of the history of the grounds and its ownership over the last few hundred years. The most intriguing part of the tour occurs underground, in the mines and countermines (pictured in the bottom right-hand corner). The ceiling is low and requires you to crouch down for at least a quarter-mile before you’re able to stand. If you’re claustrophobic, or afraid of small, tight spaces like I am, you might want to consider sending someone else to take pictures for you.
By this point in our trip, our time was limited with a to-do list still a mile-long. Unfortunately, these two locations were the only places we were fortunate enough to enjoy during our brief visit. For those interested in the area, I would encourage you to consider staying in the vicinity for at least a day or two. The locals have nothing but positive attributes for the area. $
Jannetta’s Gelateria – There are plenty of half-way decent places to eat while you’re in the St. Andrews area, but if you want the best-of-the-best, Jannetta’s is where it’s at. Family owned and operated for over five generations, Jannetta’s Gelateria is a home-made soda and gelato shop. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the menu offers an extensive array of sandwiches, soups, and salads galore! The food is both reasonably priced and absolutely delicious. Single-handedly the best gelato-based milkshake I have had the pleasure of enjoying. Definitely a must on your stop in St. Andrews. $$
Glasgow
Another popular up-and-coming tourist destination, Glasgow offers an interesting twist on what most consider to be the “traditional city-life.” The city is filled with a lot of high-end shopping and retail options mixed with local hangouts such as bars and cafes. There is a large night-scene in the area, even during the week too. Most places open mid-morning, but stay open later. My favorite part about this city was that entrance to all museums are free. Granted, most places place a “suggested donation box” upon entry, but it’s better than the alternative. From my point of view, this shows that the locals place an emphasis and importance on art and culture and enjoy sharing this with others too.
Things to Do: Downtown Glasgow is a large city with a variety of captivating and charming sights with plenty of activities for the entire family. You will find that the vast majority of museums and galleries are free to the public. Depending on your time and budget, the city has something for everyone.
Downtown Graffiti – The ever-growing argument whether graffiti should be considered art or destruction of property has been a long-standing debate world-wide. The city of Glasgow is no exception to the rule. Quite frankly, I enjoy the creativity and animosity that local graffiti provides to the weary traveler. There are tons of buildings and walls covered with local artwork around the downtown area. Just be careful to watch for traffic if you’re trying to snap a picture!
Gallery of Modern Art (GoMA) – The gallery itself has four floors of artwork and exhibitions presenting both modern and historic art. Each floor offers a variety of paintings and sculptures with the bottom-most floor dedicated to a library and cafe. This place has it all in one. The most interesting aspect of this place is the statue of the Duke of Wellington with a traffic cone on his head. Rumor has it that police and local authorities would take it down every day, and yet someone (or some people) would find ways to put it back during the night. You might not find this nearly as impressive from the image, but the statue stands 20-feet tall. After spending millions of dollars, and years of legal battles, city officials seceded and there it stays. Probably the most fitting representation of Glasgow’s inhabitants!
Glasgow Cathedral – One of the oldest Cathedral’s in all of Scotland, the Glasgow Cathedral offers a trip-to-the-past with its Gothic-style architecture. Entrance into the Cathedral is free with the option to donate; the majority of places around town offer the same accommodation. We spent about 45-minutes wandering both the ground-level and flooring beneath the altar. There are informative signs strewn around providing information about the history, and possession, of the Cathedral dating back to the 1700’s. You even have the option of viewing and/or participating in the daily masses that still occur on-site.
The Lighthouse – If you have time to kill in the middle of the afternoon, and you find art fascinating, I would definitely recommend to include The Lighthouse on your list of stops in Glasgow. What used to be a functioning lighthouse is now a modern art gallery! There are six floors of galleries ranging from modern-to-contemporary and everything else in between. The top floor, or the top of the lighthouse tower, provides a 360 degree view of downtown Glasgow. If you’re feeling adventurous, I would recommend climbing the 200+ stairs. Or, you can elect to use the elevators too.
Necropolis Cemetery – Directly behind Glasgow Cathedral, Necropolis Cemetery is home to more than 50,000 residents covering the expanse of 37-acres. The Victorian-era cemetery is multi-faceted due to it’s structure built into the natural-rolling hills. We spent over an hour weaving in and out of tombstones, climbing up-and-down the various ramps and staircases of the interconnected network of gravesites. I can’t begin to tell you why I find cemeteries so fascinating, but they somehow always make my list of places to visit when traveling. Just be respectful and mindful that the cemetery is still in use, meaning funerals are still held here on occasion. Note: during our visit in March of 2019, a large portion of the cemetery was sectioned off due to on-going construction. Unfortunately, as a result of the Earth constantly shifting, many gravesites have been damaged or shifted from their original resting place.
Whovians – Traditionally speaking, Doctor Who is most often associated with London. Since Scotland is a part of the United Kingdom, it makes sense that you would find these Police Call Boxes still hanging around. Although no longer in use, it’s fun to actually see one in person!
Unfortunately, due to the weather and our limited time, we were unable to experience all the wonders Glasgow has to offer. A few other pit stops on my to-do list were:
The Devil’s Pulpit – Also known as “Finnich Glen,” this gorge is located roughly 45-minutes outside of downtown. Note: this is a steep climb, both ways, so be sure to pack/wear your hiking shoes!!
Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum – This destination is rated the number one tourist spot in all of Glasgow! Everything I’ve read online about it encourages you to budget at least 2-3 hours here. If it’s anything like the National Museum of Scotland though, you may need more along the lines of 4-5 hours.
Places to Eat:
Drygate Brewing – My husband and I stumbled upon this brewery due to its convenient location across the street from our Air B&B. The brewery and brew-pub offers the best local beers on tap with an interesting twist on classic bar food. Pictured below, I had a deep-fried goat cheese “burger.” I still have dreams about it too. There’s a little bit of something for everyone on this menu! Located down the road from the Necropolis Cemetery. $$
SoHo Pizzeria & Bar – Known for their cocktails and pizza specials, SoHo Pizzeria and Bar is located in George Square, just off Miller Street. By the time we made it to dinner, we were starving and exhausted and opted for take-out. The happy hour special includes a personal pizza, with a 12″ circumference, and either an appetizer or dessert all for 13.95 pounds per person ( about 17 USD). For the price, portion size, and location, you certainly can’t beat it! $$
Windows Restaurant – Located on the 7th floor of the Carlton Hotel in George Square, the Windows Restaurant provides a 360 degree view of downtown Glasgow. Although most uniquely known for their afternoon tea and pastries, they do offer other food and drink options too. Either two courses for 16.95 pounds per person (21 USD) or three courses for 19.95 pounds per person (25 USD), the food is more high-end and upscale compared to your traditional hotel or bar. Go for the views, stay for the tea! $$$
Glenfinnan
I am an avid Harry Potter fan – there’s no hiding it. Once I heard that part of the movies were filmed in Scotland, I just had to go. Cue – the Glenfinnan Viaduct. This portion of our trip took us roughly two hours West of Inverness. While not entirely out of the way, we could have easily driven straight to Glasgow using a different path. However, as you can see, this option provided us a breath-taking view of the Highlands.
Things to Do: The sole purpose for our drive to the Glenfinnan area was to visit the viaduct where the train scenes from Harry Potter were filmed. And yet, I wish we had spent more time there. As always, make sure that time is on your side!
Glenfinnan Viaduct – This, my friends, was the exact location where each of the arial shots of the Hogwarts Express was filmed! There are two optimal viewing locations – one from far away (pictured in the bottom right corner) and the other allows you to walk directly beneath the bridge. I was lucky enough that a train passed overhead while I was there! In addition to the Loch Ness Ferry, Jacobite also has a steam train you can take over the bridge too. Note: the train does not run in the Winter. Also on site, you will find the Glenfinnan Monument and Visitor’s Centre. Across the street, located in front of the Loch (also where scenes from Harry Potter were filmed), you can climb to the top of the Glenfinnan Monument for the price of 4 pounds (5 USD). The top of the Monument offers a 360 degree view of both the Loch and the Viaduct. We personally didn’t chose to climb the tower, but the staff had wonderful things to say about it. On site you will also find a gift shop, a cafe, and a small exhibition about the history of the area. Entrance to the Viaduct is free, but there is a small parking fee required.
Inverness
Our initial interest in Inverness had everything to do with Loch Ness and finding the Loch Ness Monster, Nessie. However, in the end, we found that we really enjoyed the surrounding areas. Keep in mind the time of year you’re traveling and plan accordingly. A lot of places were closed for the Winter such as shops, tourist attractions, and restaurants. This really didn’t impede on our trip much because we’re flexible and found other convenient alternatives. The most unexpected aspect when traveling through the Highlands is that there is one road. On our way out of town, towards Glasgow, we included an extra stop at Eliean Donan Castle, the most widely visited castle in all of the Highlands, but were forced to turn around due to an over-turned gas truck.
Things to Do: During my recent travels, I’ve found that the places I least expect to enjoy end up being the best part of my journey. Inverness, and the surrounding mountain-range, offers a spectacular view of the Scottish Highlands. The solitude, intermingled with the crisp mountain-air, draws in tourists from all over the world.
Jacobite Boat Tour – Needless to say, you can’t visit Loch Ness without attempting to find Nessie. Luckily, Jacobite Tours provide a variety of cruise options for this very reason. During our stay, we opted for the Inspiration Tour: a one-hour ride to-and-from Urquhart Castle. There is a tour option that also includes pick-up and drop-off at Urquhart Castle in addition to the ferry ride itself. Conveniently, the ferry docks in front of Loch Ness Lodge. Once on the ferry, there are two viewing options – the bottom deck which is enclosed with a drink/snack bar and restrooms or the top deck with unobstructed views of the area. If you do decide to stay indoors, there are windows on all sides offering a 360-degree view of the lake. And depending on the time of year you visit, it’s warmer too. Keep in mind that Loch Ness is 23-miles long so there’s a lot of ground to cover in your search for Nessie. Don’t be disappointed if she doesn’t make an appearance – she’s very shy. $$
Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition – I still have mixed feelings about the Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition, primarily because it was so horrible, that it was good. Upon entry you are led through a variety of rooms with a projector and film that takes you through the history and legend behind Loch Ness and the Loch Ness Monster, Nessie. The final room provides the scientific rationale behind Nessie’s existence. Cost of entry starts at 9 pounds per person (about 11 USD), but 7.50 pounds (roughly 9.50 USD) with a valid Student ID. The best part of this experience was the submarine, located out front, and the water suit used during the initial dive to find Nessie. While the exhibit provides useful information, it’s definitely not worth the price. At the end of the self-guided tour, you are spit out into a series of three large gift shops; clearly the real gimmick here. Save yourself the money and just pop by the outside to snag a picture of the submarine. $$
What’s Your Name? – Part of my rationale for visiting Scotland was to learn more about my heritage. This shop, located directly in front of the Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition, allows visitors to conduct a search on the history of their last name (maiden name, in my case). Here I learned that my family did, in fact, derive from Scotland. In addition to being able to search your family’s history, you also have the chance to see your family’s coat of arms. This part of the process is free, but if you’d like to take this information home, you’ll have to pay for it. There are different options that range from reasonably-priced to selling your kidney to pay for it. My advice is to do what fits best for you. This mattered to me so I went the selling my kidney route, but now it’s a focal point in my home and a constant reminder of where I come from. $-$$$
Urquhart Castle – Also located on Loch Ness (Lake Ness), the grounds that currently house Urquhart Castle are all that remain of the medieval fortress. Upon entrance, you are herded immediately into a visitor’s centre that provides an informational exhibit of the history of the ruins. There is also an optional 10-minute video of the major battles that took place here during its 500-years of existence. The best part is walking the grounds of the Castle itself. Just a short walk down-slope from the visitor’s centre, you are greeted by a very informative security guard. We were lucky that Graham was working the morning of our visit, because he was chalk-full of information about, not only, Urquhart Castle itself, but the history of Scotland in general. He was very knowledgable and answered every one of our thirty questions in-depth. More importantly, he was passionate about his explanation(s) too – you can tell that he enjoys his job and is proud of his Scottish heritage too. Entrance to the grounds costs 9 pounds (about 11 USD) and includes the exhibit and film in the visitor’s centre. $
Accommodations:
Loch Ness Lodge – Located directly on Loch Ness (Lake Ness), the Loch Ness Lodge is centrally located for all of your needs in the immediate area. Note: this is a different location compared to Loch Ness Lodge Hotels, but much more worth your time and money. When we first arrived at night, we were told that our room had a direct view of the lake. To our pleasant surprise, our “view” cannot be adequately described to portray how gorgeous it was. The staff here is super-friendly and very accommodating to all of your needs. A traditional Scottish breakfast is included in the price and served daily from 8:30 AM – 10:30 AM.
The Lodge is a 3.5 hour drive Northwest of Edinburgh – always start your trips with the farthest location and work your way back towards the airport. While there is no restaurant on site, you are only 15-minutes down the road from downtown Iverness to the East and Urquhart to the West. Each room comes equipped with a personal bathroom, complimentary water and sherry, and, of course, the view. What really sold us on this place was that it felt more like a Bed & Breakfast versus a hotel. Located downstairs, next to the formal breakfast area, you will find two lounges, bot equipped with fireplaces as well as local whiskey and beer available for purchase. A great spot to unwind after a long, cold day outside! $$
Places to Eat:
Drum Takeaway – Actually located closer to Loch Ness, about twenty minutes from Inverness, this places looks sketchy and run-down. However, it’s conveniently open late with an extensive menu of options. Most importantly, it’s reasonably priced too! $
The White House – Located directly in downtown Inverness, the American inside pulled us towards this place. Thank goodness it did too! Happy Hour starts at 5 PM and goes until 7 PM and doesn’t just include drinks. Starting at 14 pounds (17 USD) you can order two courses – a dessert or appetizer and entree – or for 18 pounds (22 USD) you can order three courses – both dessert AND an appetizer. The staff is friendly with a warm and inviting atmosphere. Note: no actual relation to the White House in America. $$
The Snow Goose – My husband always says that you visit places for the food. While traditional Scottish food is not usually my go-to, I must say that I was quite impressed with the food options throughout. The Snow Goose was no exception to that either! This quaint, cozy bistro is located 10-15 minutes outside of immediate downtown. The portions are large with extensive menu-options. Most importantly, the food is delicious and reasonably priced too. Seating available both inside, by the fire, or outside too. A most refreshing getaway from the busy hustle of city-life. $-$$
East of Inverness
Part of the reason we were so drawn to the city of Iverness is what lay two hours East of it – the Malt Whiskey Trail. Not that I am much of a whiskey-drinker, in fact I can’t really stand the stuff, but my husband loves it and I love learning about the process and history behind big-name companies. With a little bit of extra research, I was able to put together a to-do list of activities in the area to make the two hour drive worth it.
Things to Do: Whether you are visiting for a day, three-days, a week, or three-weeks, there is so much to experience in such a small amount of time. Contrary to the popular saying, don’t think big! Think about what means the most and will have the largest impact on your travels and state-of-mind. Our excursion east of Inverness lasted only a few short hours, but included some of the most mesmerizing sights during our travels in Northern Scotland.
Beauly Priory (Fortrose Cathedral) – Another 20-25 minute drive outside of Inverness, in the opposite direction of everything else, the Beauly Priory, provides a view of the archaic ruins of the Fortrose Cathedral and accompanying graveyard that once stood on this plot of land. There is a parking lot adjacent to the graveyard and, currently, admission is free to walk the grounds. Located in the quaint town of Inverness-Shire, there are local shops and eateries nearby if you need a rest from your 20-minute walk around the property. During our visit, the back-half of the Cathedral was blocked off due to restoration efforts.
Clava Cairns – A nice stopping point on your way back towards Inverness from Glenfiddich, this particular group of Cairns are what remains of Scotland’s most ancient cemeteries. Free to park and walk around, you have the ability to walk directly into the pit/grave. There are helpful signs posted around that provide a back story to the location and the souls who lie there. We only stayed for a short period of time, possibly 15-minutes or so, but there are benches and other seating areas strewn about if you want to pack or bring food for a picnic. Not necessarily my cup of tea, but if it works for you then so be it!
Glenfiddich Distillery – For convenience purposes, I would recommend booking ahead of time online. There are four tour types: Explorers (10 pounds – 12 USD), Spirit of Innovation (25 pounds – 31 USD), Deconstructed (50 pounds – 61 USD), and Pioneer (95 pounds – 116 USD). Each of these tours range in length from 1.5 hours to 4 hours of whiskey knowledge. Due to our budget and time restraints, we opted for the Spirit of Innovation tour which lasted two hours, but included five tastings at the end. This is where my husband really enjoys these tours – since I don’t drink, guess who gets all 10 samples! No complaints from him. The tour guides are very knowledge about the process of whiskey-making as well as the history behind the Glenfiddich family. I would recommend AL as your tour guide – he was excellent! $$-$$$
There is a restaurant and bar on site too if you arrive early or want to spend time testing additional samples after your tour. They even offer miniature bottles for the drivers to promote responsible driving. On your way back to the parking lot, you’ll find a gift shop tucked into the corner of the property. Here you have the option of buying full-sized bottles of Glenfiddich’s most popular whiskey’s OR the option to pour your own bottle from a special cask to the tune of 120 pounds (roughly 150 USD) per bottle. While I was equally shocked by the price, it is a one-of-a-kind opportunity and your name is recorded in their history books (pictured above).
Notable Attractions:
Of course, time is never on our side, and I usually rack-up a to-do list of things I never get to cross off. But, it’s a running list that I keep on hand in case I have the opportunity to visit again someday. In this case, here is a list of places to visit both in downtown Inverness and just outside of it too:
Culloden Battlefield – Only a 5-minute drive down the road from Clava Cairn’s first location, this site is all that remains of the Battle of Culloden. Entrance to the visitor’s center is free, but you must pay 3 pounds (about 3.75 USD) to park. The field is large and would take about 2.5-3 hours to walk in its entirety. We drove past, but I was too cold and lazy to get out of the car.
Victorian Market – closes early in the Winter
Oddities – My favorite part about traveling somewhere new is getting to experience something I have never done before. I also appreciate getting to investigate the rarities that others might find “weird” or “creepy” but oddly peeks my curiosity. You may find these places equally as intriguing:
Fingal’s Cave – Argyll and Brute
Greyfriar’s Cemetery Mortsafes – Edinburgh
Holyrood Abbey Ruins – Edinburgh
Dunbar’s Close – Edinburgh
Britannia Panopticon Music Hall – Glasgow
Scotland’s Secret Bunker – St. Andrews
Money-Saving Travel Guide:
The best advice I can give you for traveling is that, while it’s important to try new things and have fun adventures, you don’t want to do it at the expense of breaking the bank. Here is a list of budget-friendly activities for your time in Scotland:
Beyond Borders 