Italy

I’ve always held the belief that there are just too many places to see and experience around the world that traveling to the same place twice isn’t worth the time or money. Since I had already been to Florence and Rome during high school, I didn’t see the point in ever returning. In all honesty, I can’t fully explain what led me to booking this particular trip, but now that it has come and gone, I’m actually glad that I did. It was refreshing to re-live some of my high school experiences, which led me to want to travel in the first place, as well as create new experiences and memories with my husband. Now though, I can honestly say that I will more-than-likely never make it back to Italy again. I don’t think it’s fair for me to tell others not to go there – it’s definitely a place you need to experience first-hand. If anything though, at least try to have an open mind!

Car Rental

Looking back on our extravagant adventures, both the good and the bad, throughout Italy, I’ve come to the conclusion that renting a car in this country is simply not worth it. As much as it pangs me to admit that my husband was right (I’ll thank you all not to pass that message along), this particular car rental was more trouble than it was worth. I must tip my hat off to Hertz Rental though, as this was, by far, the easiest pick-up we’ve ever experienced. We rented, and paid for, a Fiat, but we were upgraded to an Audi SUV at no extra charge. No complaints here! In our case, due to the route we elected to travel while in Italy, we had to pick-up and drop-off at separate locations (different cities) which added an additional 100 Euros (111 USD) to our total bill. Make sure you opt for the unlimited milage package though to allow you the flexibility of exploring without worrying about cost.

Most car rental companies will offer some variation of insurance coverage for the duration of your rental period. The majority of the time, Iceland excluded, I would recommend foregoing the additional charge. However, there are literally no rules when it comes to driving in Italy (I say this 90% jokingly too), so in the long run, it would actually benefit you. Hertz charged us an additional 35 Euros (39 USD) per day, which seems pricey, in retrospect. Italian drivers are all over the place though, and it’s nothing we wanted to chance. Whether true or not, we were told that we would be liable for 4,000 Euros (roughly 4500 USD) of damage in anything happened to the car. Not taking that chance!

An additional tidbit no one tells you about is the cost of gas. We were thoroughly warned before our travels to Iceland, but Italy puts them to shame. To fill our tank, it cost 97 Euros (108 USD) and Hertz “threatened” to charge us 135 Euros (150 USD) if we returned the car less than full. Most importantly, be sure to double check gas-type with your rental agency and pay careful attention to the pump handles. You don’t want to take an unnecessary risks in a foreign country.

Autostrade – Anywhere you travel will have their own system of interstates and toll roads. Throughout Italy, travelers will notice that the most common interstate system is the Autostrade, also known as the A1. In addition to being an interstate, it’s also a toll road too. Trying to get onto the Autostrade is the most difficult part of navigating it – once there, it’s essentially a straight shot until your next destination. Upon entering, travelers are presented with a ticket. Rates are entirely based upon your intended stop; you will be instructed to provide your ticket leaving the A1 at which point you will pay for its use. If you are weighing the cost of renting a car compared to use the railway system, the Autostrade is an important fact to consider. Cost for use of the toll road adds up quickly, especially if you are bouncing from city-to-city. Unlike American interstates, you will notice that there are limited places to stop for gas along the A1. Be sure to check your fuel gauge before jumping on to avoid an unpleasant situation down the road.

Rail Europe

If my warnings against renting a car effectively dissuaded you from doing so, lucky for you that Italy has a very extensive railway system that extends the entire length, and width, of the country. Rail Europe: Italy is a common means of travel for not only tourists, but Italians as well. They offer a wide berth of times to suit your needs and schedule, depending on where, or how far, you’re traveling. The train schedule is posted online for those who want to buy tickets in advance, but be aware that it’s a pretty hefty price if you want to change times/trains last-minute. If you book ahead of time, you can also hand-pick your seat; this is an option if it’s important to have a table or outlet readily available. You’ll also need to keep in mind that this option is not cheap! And very different than the railway system run within the major cities too. There is a small cafe on the train, but patrons are allowed to bring their own food on as well.

Trains leave from Roma Termini where the staff is very unfriendly as well as unhelpful. One worker rolled her eyes so hard, I physically felt her annoyance. Not to mention that platform numbers and locations for out-bound trains are not provided until five-minutes before departure and they do not take kindly to late-arrivals. But I’m not bitter. Most importantly, and I cannot stress this enough, do not put your feet on their seats. Blame it on me being an American if you want, but other people were stretched out too. It wasn’t until I was physically assaulted (slapped awake) by one of the workers that I learned this the hard way. We only used this mode of transportation once on our three-hour journey from Rome to Venice. $$$

Customer Service

I don’t normally make it a point to isolate the customer service industry in foreign countries, but there is just so much to be said about it in Italy that I think it’s worth mentioning. Calling the customer service in this country “disappointing” is the understatement of the year. At first, the wait staff at restaurants seem friendly and inviting, until you’ve been seated. Then it’s as if you no longer exist. Someone’s job, and sole purpose, is to stand outside to convince passing patrons to come inside for food. After seating you, they immediately return outside to convince the next sucker passing by.

If you’re lucky enough to get a server right away, most of the time they are very short and snarky in their response. After a while, we started to notice that it was only certain people who were treated this way too. It’s rude to assume it was because we were American, but if the shoe fits. Once you get your food, after what seems like forever, it will take an additional half an hour to pay and leave. In most restaurants and food establishments, tipping is not customary, but always appreciated. You will be charged a “coperto,” or cover charge, which is said to pay for the “free” bread and wait staff too. Consider it a cheap tip. You’ll also want to be careful with your use of your card too – not every place accepts card so keep some cash on your person as a back-up.

You will find that the majority of the wait staff can be very pushy. Don’t be afraid to push back! My suggestion is to be short and direct. Sometimes the less you say, the better. And most importantly, try not to take it personally. Their demeanor and attitude can easily change your own attitude, but don’t let it. At the end of the day, you don’t live there and more than likely won’t ever come back to that specific place again. They know this too, which is probably why they act the way they do. Enjoy your meal. Live in the moment. And if it bothers you that much, just don’t tip.

Communication

The official, national language in Italy is, of course, Italian. According to research, over 85 million people in the world speak Italian and serves as one of the prominent languages of the Council of Europe. While Italian is the most common spoken language throughout Italy, it is not the only spoken language. Due to its rising popularity, you will find that a lot of people speak English throughout Italy. With that being said, you can clearly tell that this means of communication is not preferred amongst Italians. This is probably where we noticed the most dichotomy over the course of our stay. We did try to learn simple Italian phrases before our trip to help us get by, but it’s evident that, at least the majority of Italians we encountered, did not appreciate or really care if we tried to use their language.

The most frustrating aspect of the communication barrier, despite our best efforts, is that we were shunned or looked down upon for speaking in English; it’s pretty clear we’re American. You can’t exactly hide your American accent. On one occasion, we asked our server whether English was taught in schools in Italy and, turns out, it’s not. It’s up to the student to learn English. No wonder they don’t really care for it! All in all, I would say that trying your best to fit in and adapt to the language to the best of your ability will be, generally, appreciated by those who speak the official language. You certainly can’t help where you’re from or the language you speak. Just don’t let their attitude deter you from trying!

Florence

During my initial visit to Florence back on 2007, I was the mere age of fifteen years old. I didn’t quite understand what lay before me or fully embrace the extent of my time in the city. Thankfully, a dear friend of mine recently visited Florence and raved about the culture and people. Thus, it was only fitting to add Florence to our list of stops in an attempt to revisit my past. In total, the trip from Verona to Florence took about 2.5-3 hours by car. Getting there by train is also an option, in half the time too, and probably not nearly as difficult to make it through the city either.

Florence is often considered the heart of Italy as it sits directly in the middle of the country. Situated equidistant from both Rome and Verona, in opposite directions, Florence is one of the most popular cities to visit throughout all of Italy.

Based on our experiences driving in, around, and through foreign cities, Florence takes the cake for the worst place to drive. This is the one instance in our travels where I would recommend taking the train, even if it limits your ability to explore places outside the city. Our favorite joke throughout this trip regarding Italian drivers was, “there are no rules!” because Italians literally don’t care about rules and regulations when driving. Especially those living in the city too who will walk directly in front of your car without any care(s) in the world; it’s your job to mind them, not the other way around.

This is the one instance where Siri was a complete and utter let-down. Apparently, she is not familiar with one-way streets in foreign places. Let’s just say that this led us to some tricky situations and increased the tension level in the car to the max. Not to mention that parking is limited and they charge an exuberant amount per day (35 Euros per 24-hour period). This cost us over 110 USD for a three-day period. Note: our hotel offered “discount” parking, but didn’t respond to our inquiries as to the location of said garage so we opted to park in the first possible location we could find. Another bizarre component of parking anywhere in Italy, especially in a garage, is that they take the keys from you. Some places also don’t allow you to retrieve your car before checkout. All in all, parking was a nightmare and not worth the time, effort, or added stress.

The city itself is vastly different than I remember it being during my youth. Due to the increase of residents and tourists, Florence has become a central shopping location. A combination of both high-end and tourist shops, Florence also has a wide selection in leather goods. Seriously, walking down the streets, you can easily smell the rough scent of leather wafting from the stores and various stalls across the city. All joking aside, Florence provides visitors a unique experience all the while presenting the rich history and culture of its residents.

Things to Do:

Compared to Venice and Verona, there is so many activities and places to visit and experience during your stay in Florence. We spent almost a full 72-hours in Florence and still had to forego visiting some of the places on our “to-do” list. This just means we’ll have to go back one day to check everything from our list; if only I could convince my husband to go, that is.

Firenze Card – I’m sure you might have noticed a common trend with regards to my planning for this trip at this point in my post. Cross my heart, hope to die, I swear I adequately planned and prepared months prior to our travels. And yet, Italy completely kicked my butt. Cue the Firenze Card. Once again, I was not privy to this information until we arrived in Florence and began visiting museums, galleries, churches, etc. galore. Fortunately enough, it worked out that we didn’t over spend on tickets and entrance fees, much like we did in Verona. The Firenze card runs 85 Euros (94 uSD) and allows travelers 72-hours access (beginning at its first use) to the top-most attractions and sites throughout Florence. If you’re planning at least a few days in Florence, I would highly recommend looking into purchasing this card for its ease of use and convenience too. $$

Leonardo da Vinci Museum – By this point in our trip, this was the second Leonardo da Vinci Museum we had visited. The irony of the situation is that I had no original intentions on visiting either place during our trip. As much as my husband admires Leonardo da Vinci, his museum in Florence is quite dull in terms of things to see. The museum is composed of replicas of his designs/inventions with signs and images explaining their purpose and history. While it’s not the most exciting place to visit, it does provide an interesting view on da Vinci’s work and contributions to the world compared to the museum in Venice that focused only on his anatomical drawings. The bottom-most floor, labeled as the “observatory” room, allows visitors to text and/or play with replicas of his inventions; it was interesting to see how his inventions are stilled utilized today. There is also a room dedicated to children from drawing and experimenting. I wouldn’t plan on spending more than 45-minutes here, unless you have children. Note: entrance fee of 7 Euros (8 USD) per person and is not a part of the Firenze Card. $

Cathedral of Florence – Famously designed and engineered by Filippo Brunelleschi, the Cathedral of Florence is the most notable attraction in the entire city. Originally built in the 13th century as a Christian church, the Cathedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore is visible from almost anywhere in the downtown area. Also frequently referred to as the “Duomo,” your visit to the Cathedral is broken into four sections: the inside of the Cathedral, the Dome, the Bell Tower, and the Baptistery, each requiring a separate ticket and security check too. Visitors planning to visit each location are highly encouraged to purchase an all-inclusive ticket that grants entry to all four places, but does not bypass the security check. At the counter, the all-inclusive ticket runs 18 Euros (20 USD) per person, or you can purchase in advance for 20 Euros (22 USD) to avoid the line. The only section that requires pre-booking is Brunelleschi’s Dome (Cupola). $$

Note: The line to enter the Cathedral fills up quickly – I would recommend arriving early to avoid a long wait. Visitors must dress appropriately in order to enter the Cathedral too. No tank tops. No flip-flops. No shorts. No hats. They are strict with this rule and are not bothered by denying you entry if you fail to adhere to it.

Crypt of Santa Reparata – Located beneath the actual Cathedral, the crypt of Santa Reparata is small and visitors are unable to reach it directly. In order to access the crypt, visitors must enter through the Cathedral – there is a staircase within the church leading down. A part from the crypt itself, there are other artifacts and broken headstones from the original excavation site. Since visitors must enter through the church, make sure you are dressed appropriately! $$

Brunelleschi’s Dome – Frequently referred to as the “cupola,” Brunelleschi’s Dome is a popular attraction amongst tourists, but definitely not for those faint of heart or scared of heights. Guests are able to visit the top of the dome (pre-booking is required) by climbing 463-steps. Thankfully, this portion was broken-up into different sections to take pictures of statues or inside the Cathedral from above; or to catch your breath if you’re out of shape. I would suggest that you plan at least 30-45 minutes just for climbing the stairs. Once reaching the top, visitors are presented with a full 360-degree view of downtown Florence. And let me tell you, the views are breath-taking, both literally and figuratively. Traditionally, I am terrified of heights, but I thought this too good of an opportunity not to take full advantage of the sites. My husband, on the other hand, literally hugged the pillars (pictured below) for fear of falling over. $$

Giotto’s Bell Tower – Officially known as “Campanile di Giotto,” Giotto’s Bell tower stands just below Brunelleschi’s Dome at 414-steps. Much like the cupola, the bell tower is broken-up into four sections to allow visitors to view the city at differing heights. However, unlike the cupola, the top of the bell tower is caged. As you can probably imagine, this was much more appealing for my husband – although he still clung to the sides as much as possible. For those who aren’t interested in climbing another set of steps, thankfully the bell itself can be heard for miles around the city, day and night. For those interested in the views and cardio, just make sure you don’t climb the bell tower immediately after the cupola like we did. Bad move. $$

Baptistery of St. John – In comparison to the Cathedral, Dome, and Bell Tower, the Baptistry is only open at select times throughout the day. Be sure to check online before you go! In comparison to the other locations in the vicinity, there is limited to see or experience once inside the actual baptistry. Note: the baptistry is currently undergoing restoration so a large section inside is blocked off. Even though there isn’t much to do, is in included in your ticket to the Cathedral and worth stopping by. The baptistry is most known for its golden door (pictured below) and attracts tourists far and wide. $$

Galleria dell’Accademia – Most widely known for the Statue of David (pictured below), the Galleria dell’Accademia is one of the busiest and crowded places in all of Florence. During the busy season, visitors typically spend over an hour waiting in line just to get in. Once inside though, visitors can expect to spend additional time waiting to get up close to the Statue of David. Unfortunately, other than David, there isn’t too much to see or do throughout the remainder of the gallery. The gallery itself is a lot smaller than anticipated, whereas the Statue of David is gigantic in size. Even though I’ve seen replicas and images online, they don’t nearly provide justice the actual Statue of David itself. Impressive is an understatement – even for those who aren’t fond of art! Other than David, visitors are subject to see a plethora of religious-based paintings, statues, busts, and a separate museum of musical instruments. Audioguides are also available for free. Without factoring time waiting in line, I would suggest to anticipate at least an hour and a half here. $

ViaTour – The morning of our visit to the Galleria dell’Accademia, we decided to purchase tickets ahead of time, online. When looking at the map via Google, we were redirected to the ViaTour site where we could purchase advanced tickets. Without meaning too, or even wanting to really, we had accidentally booked ourselves a “tour.” We only realized this when we went to pick-up our tickets, according to the instructions on the receipt provided via email, and were told we had to wait for our specified “tour” time. This caused us to find something to do in the area, with an hour and a half of time to kill. Later in the afternoon, at our designated “tour” time, we met at the pre-selected meeting point where our “tour” guide led us to the entrance of the Gallery, provided us our tickets, then promptly left. Our next instructions were to enter, pass through security, then wait on the other side. However, after 15-minutes of waiting, our “tour” guide never showed back up. My husband and I were not the only ones confused by the strange behavior of our “tour” guide, or what we were supposed to do next. Eventually, we all gave up and went our separate ways.

Following our visit to the Galleria dell’Accademia, my husband and I tried to find someone who could answer our questions as well as explain their rationale for just leaving us. Conveniently, the ViaTour site, where we met with our guide to begin with, was closed. For the sake of enough time wasted, we opted to contact the tour’s management via email. After back-and-forth correspondence that took place over the course of the next 48-hours, I was simply told that we “misunderstood the worker” and that “it wasn’t actually a tour.” By this point, I was so beyond frustrated and annoyed that I simply let it be and opted to warn future tourists about this scam by doing what I do best – write a review. $$

Without specifically meaning too, we happened to encounter several bikes with floral deco parked around the city. You’ll notice that a lot of residents with Florence get around using their bikes. Thus, the bike has become a popular image and symbol of Florence. There’s nothing specifically fascinating about the bikes themselves, I just liked the look of them and the city’s eco-friendly means of transportation.

Galileo’s Museum – Located directly next to the Arno River, Galileo’s Museum offers visitors an inside-look into the world of science through the development of chemistry, medicine, physics, and astronomy since Galileo’s time. Also commonly referred to as “Museo Galileo,” the museum spans the 15th and 16th centuries while paying homage to the development of common, and not-so-common, scientific theories. For those who are not interested in science (much like myself), Galileo’s Museum is, at the very least, home to one of Atlas Obscura’s most unusual artifacts: Galileo’s middle finger (pictured below). Trust me, it looks as bizarre as it sounds. This museum is fun and educational for the whole family. There is even an interactive section at the end for visitors to see these scientific concepts put into practice. Entrance runs visitors 10 Euros (11 uSD), but bags are not allowed inside the museum itself. Not to fret though! Free lockers are provided in the front hall. Note: entry included as part of Firenze Card. $

Uffizi Gallery – Originally built in the late-1500’s, the Uffizi Gallery houses an array of paintings, portraits, statues, and busts as well as the Medici family’s extensive art collection. Most commonly known as “Le Gallerie Degli Uffizi” by the locals, the Uffizi Gallery stands two stories tall and covers a wide span of Italian Art History; from the Middle Ages to Modern times. In recent years though, the gallery is most notably recognized as the home for Botticelli’s “Spring” and “Venus” – both pictured below. Similar to the Galleria dell’Accademia, the Uffizi Gallery also includes similar paintings and/or subjects of the religious family. For though interested in art, one could easily spend a whole day here. If you’re trying to fit more than one museum, or site, into a single day, I would recommend setting aside at least 2-3 hours to catch a glimpse of the more famous art pieces. Located on site, visitors will also find a cafeteria on the top-most floor, a bookshop, and at least three separate gift shops. Entry runs 12 Euros (13 USD) per person, with the option to rent audioguides for an additional fee. Note: entry included as part of Firenze Card. $

Boboli Gardens – By now, I’m sure you’ve noticed that I always make it a point to include a pit-stop at the local gardens at each of the cities we visit. Florence was certainly no exception. Located within the Pitti Palace, better known as the Piazza de’Pitti, the Boboli Gardens is an Italian-styled garden which centered as a model for other gardens to come.

Throughout the gardens, visitors will come across various ancient, Renaissance statues as well as botany, different sculptures, fountains, architecture, and natural landscape too. The main attraction, located in the center of the gardens, is the Fountain of Neptune (pictured below). Depending on the time of year and season, visitors may even witness common Italian flowers. Our visit, clearly, coincided with the Fall season. We were lucky enough to experience first-hand the leaves change color.

Even if you are not interested in the gardens themselves, this is a great, cheap, place to bring the whole family. Due to the size of the property, visitors could easily spend a few hours here, especially if you were to think ahead and pack a picnic. While the gardens itself offers sites of the city, places for reading and lounging, and even smaller museums throughout, visitors are not able to sit or walk on the grass. Just don’t plan to bring a soccer or football! Plenty of visitors found ways to entertain themselves utilizing the seating and pathways already provided. Entry into the gardens runs 6 Euros (7 USD) per person and includes free admission to their sister-park, Bardini Gardens, located just down the road. Just make sure to note summer vs. winter hours depending the time of year during your visit. $

Bardini Gardens – Situated around a 17th century villa, the Bardini Gardens is comprised of museums, art exhibitions, and the gardens themselves. On site, visitors will find a variety of statues and other structures restored to their original beauty. Better yet, visitors are presented with gorgeous views of the Duomo and downtown Florence (pictured below).

The Bardini Gardens are about half of the size of its sister, the Boboli Gardens, located within a 10-minute walk of the property. Unfortunately for us, during the time of our visit, several sections of the property was closed due to maintenance, restoration, and preparation for the upcoming Winter frost. In addition to the foliage and greenery, depending on the time of year though, visitors will see more flowers as the name would suggest. Just be careful to double check the winter versus summer hours as well as last admittance before closing – we were just shy of not being allowed entry. Also located on site, visitors will find both a restaurant and coffee house. Be sure to plan plenty of time to find your way around! Note: entry is included with the Firenze Card AND admission ticket to Boboli Gardens. $

English Cemetery – Absolutely, without a doubt, the best surprise in all of Florence! We happened to stumble upon this hidden gem during our search to kill time before the Galleria dell’Accademia. Although the “Cimiterio degli Inglesi” is a located on the outskirts of the city centre, 20- minute walk from the Duomo, it should be a must on your to-do list in Florence; especially if you’re in love with English literature. Immediately upon entry, we found the final resting place for my all-time favorite Victorian Writer, Elizabeth Barrett Browning. It was definitely a “squeee” moment! Visitors can also find the resting place of the last descendants of Shakespeare’s lineage.

Yet again, we found ourselves in quite the debacle in attempting to visit the cemetery, to our own foolishness, I might presume, too. Those pesky Winter hours certainly got the best of us! Fortunately, the nun who monitors the property allowed us to walk around the site, even after they were already closed. You will also need to taken the setting of the sun into consideration too. While we were allowed to stay as long as we wanted, we could only fit about 20-minutes of sight-seeing in before it was too dark to see.

Lorenzo Market – Ask anyone for advice about what to do in Florence and they will probably recommend for you to visit Mercato Centrale Firenze, or Lorenzo’s Market. The central part of Lorenzo’s Market takes place inside a three-story shopping center filled with produce, fresh fish, meats, as well as cafes and mini-restaurants. If you want it, Lorenzo’s market has it. The only downside is that the inside space closes early. Not to worry though, outside, surrounding the building, visitors will find a plethora of goods such as leather, magnets, tee-shirts, and everything else in between to satisfy your touristy needs. The outside portion of the market takes up to three streets and spans in all directions. If you’re not interested in purchasing anything, it’s at least a great place to walk around and experience the local culture firsthand. Note: this can be a tourist trap, therefore don’t be afraid to negotiate prices!

Notable Attractions

If, for whatever reason, the aforementioned places don’t peak your interest, here are some other notable attractions to consider visiting while in Florence:

National History Museum

Palazzo Pitti

Medicean Chapels

Bardini Museum

Oddities

Thankfully, Florence is no exception when it comes to the strange and bizarre! If you’re looking for something new and exciting, and a little odd, be sure to check out these places too:

La Specola – temporarily closed

The Relic of St. Antoninus

Hall of Geographical Maps

Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy

The Apennine Colossus – temporarily closed

Places to Eat:

JT Caffe – While walking by on our way to the Boboli Gardens, the sandwiches in the window at JT Caffe immediately caught our attention. We were both ravenous and in the mood for anything not-Italian. Located directly across the street from the Piazza di Pitti, JT Caffe was decorated in a modern-style with comfortable couches and arm chairs for seating. Definitely a unique twist compared to the other establishments in Florence, although the staff here was particularly snooty and what I would deem as “uppety.” The food was good, but over-priced; I will say that the portions are large though. They have a very interesting take on the caesar salad (pictured below): chicken, grape tomatoes, bacon, and caesar dressing. $$

Brunelleschi Bistrot – After driving around aimlessly for over and hour, arguing about parking, and checking into our hotel, we were spent upon our arrival in Florence. Our first priority became nourishment and rejuvenation. Since our hotel was centrally located near the Duomo, we had a plethora of restaurants and bistros to choose from. Conveniently located next to Pizza a Taglio Ricciardi and the Duomo, Brunelleschi Bistrot is a modern-chic bistro serving traditional Italian dishes (tomato soup pictured below) in addition to a selection of fine-wine and beer. The bistro is only open for lunch and dinner, but offers a variety in post-meal treats as well. The food is both scrumptious and worth the price! $$

Ristorante Buca Niccolini – Based on all of our meals throughout Italy, this place had the best-priced menu out of the bunch. We stopped in for our last dinner in Florence before heading off to Rome. To accommodate the weather, Buca Niccolini has both indoor and outdoor seating; with warmers placed outside for those colder nights. We opted to sit outside to take-in the gorgeous view of the Duomo one last time. For dinner, we split the mussels in pepper sauce and a pepperoni pizza. The food wasn’t the only menu items well-priced, but my glass of Prosecco as well as my husbands whiskey were both under 5 Euros (5.50 USD) each. We enjoyed not only the food and drinks, but for the price and view, it was definitely an excellent choice. $

Vineria del Re – Our second dinner in Florence coincided with our third wedding anniversary, so we wanted some place special. We couldn’t have found a more perfect location than Vineria del Re. The food was absolutely phenomenal. While the menu offered a selection in traditional Italian food, their specials menu included three menu items, appetizer, main course, and dessert, each meticulously paired with a glass of fine wine. There were three specials menu options, each priced per person, and increased in price and intricacy – prices ranged from 18 Euros (20 USD) to 38 Euros (42 USD). The only downside to our dinner here was that the entire meal took place over the course of three hours, and to no fault of our own. Much like other restaurants in Italy, the service is slow and waiters tend to favor tables that speak Italian. The complimentary Prosecco upon being seated certainly made up for it though! $$-$$$

Pizza a Taglio Ricciardi – A friend of mine who recently visited Florence insisted we, “find the pizza place downstairs next to the Duomo.” For her lack of geographical awareness, she did an awesome job pointing us in the right direction with this place. She was absolutely right though, if facing the front of the Duomo, Pizza a Taglio Ricciardi is located just to the left-hand side of the street. We decided to pop in for lunch in between our visit to the Cathedral and the Baptistry. Upon entering, patrons are greeted by a window of pizza options and encouraged to order upstairs before taking your food to the sitting area located underneath the restaurant. Interestingly enough, pizza is not charged by the slice, but by weight. While they do offer a mixed variety of topping options, they only have Peroni on draft for beer options. Feel free to consider purchasing bottled soda, water, or beer from the fridges located upstairs too. What made this pizza better than the traditional Italian-style was that it was more of a flatbread with a thicker crust. Compared to the cost of the majority of our meals throughout Italy, this place was a pleasant surprise. For two large pizza slices and two beers, we only paid 20 Euros (22 USD). Both cheap and delicious! $

Don Nino: Gelateria & Pasticceria – Hands down, the absolute best gelato and dessert we had during our stay in Florence. No exaggeration. This cute ice cream shop reminded me of a 60’s American Diner; from the style right down to the selection in music too. It takes a special kind of person to make gelato at exactly the right consistency, and yet, this place nailed it! The flavor immediately hit you, without being too overbearing. Of course, if you aren’t interested in gelato, they do offer a variety in personal cakes, cheesecakes, and macaroons too. There is even a separate section for more formal meals and/or sandwiches. Visitors can order inside at a table, although limited seating is available, or outside at the take-away counter. If you’re looking for something to pair with your dessert, they also offer a wide selection in classic drinks or even specialty coffees. $

La Cattedrale Bar Gelateria – According to the TripAdvisor reviews, Bar Gelateria is rated one of Florence’s number-one “hot gelato spots.” I would respectably like to disagree. Not that the gelato was bad or over-priced, it was just sub-par. We popped by while wandering the streets and shops our first night in Florence. Compared to other gelato we’ve tried, I felt like this was “too fluffy” – it’s hard to imagine that’s even a thing, but here we are. In addition to serving gelato, the shop acts as part-cafe serving refreshments and a mix of sandwich options. However, there is limited seating inside to actually enjoy your food. $

Gran Caffe San Marco: Ristorante – With some extra time on our hands, we decided to pop in for an afternoon snack and quick coffee pick-me-up. For the purpose of our visit, we stayed on the bakery side, although there is a full-menu restaurant patrons can also visit. The bakery offers a large selection in delectables from cookies and personal cakes to cannolis and full-sized take-away cakes too. Unfortunately, prices were not posted so we were unaware of just how expensive they were until we paid the bill; 20 Euros (22 uSD) for two cappuccinos and two desserts. $$

La Bistecca: Osteria Fiorentina – For our first dinner in Florence, La Bistecca certainly set the bar high for our expectations! We decided to take a more traditional Italian route by sharing a charcuterie board packed with salami, assortment of cheeses, bruschetta, liver pat-tee, artichokes, and sun-dried tomatoes. Because this menu item is meant to be shared, you will typically find that menu’s offer it already priced for two people. A little different than most Americans might be used to, especially with the restaurant’s selection in head-cheese as an added bonus. While the majority of these items are not number one on my go-to choice on the menu, I felt that it was important to be adventurous and spontaneous while abroad. And now I can say I’ve tried it! $$

Accommodations

B&B La Terrazza Sul Duomo Firenze – This place is the best possible location for your stay in Florence! I cannot place enough emphasis on just how perfect the location is – set directly in front of the Duomo. Visitors also have access to the roof-top terrace (pictured below) which provides a spectacular view of the Cathedral and the city centre too. I would highly recommend visiting both during the day and at night to really take in the sites. For both the location and inclusion of breakfast, you can’t beat the price either!

As I previously mentioned, this hotel is listed as a B&B online which means breakfast is included, promptly at eight, each morning. Unfortunately, as pictured below, you can see that the “breakfast” is nothing in comparison to what we’d expect from a B&B in America, especially since my Aunts own a B&B. For the cost, I would have rather ate breakfast out in order to experience a real, authentic, Italian breakfast. The rooms were tastefully styled in classic, 16th or 17th century Italian decor, yet with modern adjustments. While breakfast might be included, parking is not. A discount is offered to visitors, but only at “Garage di Michelangelo” which was impossible to find. Interestingly enough, the only staff we encountered were very young (mid-20’s maybe), but extremely friendly. The B&B is located on the second floor of the building and requires an old-school lift in order to reach it. $$

Rome

The final stop on our Italian adventure brought us to the country’s capital, Rome. Even though I was already familiar with Rome from my previous visit to Italy in high school, I was eager to share in revisiting its beauty with my husband. Unexpectedly though, it was nothing like I remembered. Whether this is good or bad is left entirely to my readers. It’s important to note that, due to its recent rise in popularity, Rome is more densely populated than both Florence and Venice. This is a large result of having a higher tourist attraction rate compared to other cities throughout Italy. While Rome is a beautiful city with so much history behind it, it is also poorly maintained by both the government and its residents. I can’t think of a single building, outside the Vatican of course, that wasn’t covered in graffiti.

To reach Rome from Florence, travelers must travel three hours by car or an hour and a half by train. Keep in mind that driving offers the opportunity to stop and explore along the way. We broke up our trip by thirds to offset the time spent in the car. However, the train will help get you to Rome much quicker with less to worry about like gas, tolls, or worse, Italian drivers. Surprisingly though, Roman drivers are not nearly as bad as those in Florence; or maybe we had simply got the hang of it by then. While you will still find a lot of one-way roads and streets, it’s not as compact or confusing as driving in other cities throughout Italy. In addition to the “there are no rules” rule, another rule of thumb to remember is “if you want to go straight, go under.” In any occasion, watch out for motorcycles and mopeds as they weave in between cars and buses constantly. Compared to other cities on our list, Rome has a much better public transport system. Heed my warnings and avoid driving at all costs.

Things to Do:

Luckily, for visitors to Rome, there is no shortage of sites to see or things to do. Unfortunately, it’s nearly impossible to fit everything into just three days time. When preparing for your trip, I would highly recommend considering what’s most important for you to see and make that your priority. Due to Rome’s rising popularity, the wait times to enter most locations takes more than your actual visit; don’t be alarmed if your wait time exceeds an hour or two. Another recent development is the addition of security check points at all major attractions and points of entry. Don’t be alarmed by a heavy police or military presence either; better safe than sorry!

In order to squeeze in our to-do list, we blurred through a lot of the places we visited to see what really mattered to us. By doing so though, we missed out on seeing, or experiencing, different wonders of each location we might otherwise have enjoyed. Due to the nature, or purpose, of some attractions, a strict, appropriate, dress-code will be enforced. You’ll also need to remember that you are in one of the oldest cities that helped to spark and develop ancient civilizations. So, naturally, their Wifi sucks and exists in limited capacities throughout the city. A part from the people being exceptionally pushy, Rome is overall a fairly quiet town. The most important component to remember is to be weary of scammers! You’ll begin to notice that a lot of “unofficial companies” stand outside of popular tourist attractions offering tickets through their company – don’t trust them! Others will simply give you their sob story, as well as “free” items, but ask for a donation at the end. All in all, just be careful and aware of your surroundings at all times.

Roma Pass – Much like other places throughout the world, Rome also has an all-inclusive pass to help visitors experience and see the most popular attractions around the city. The Rome Pass has two options: 48-hours or 72-hours. Unlike other city passes though, the Roma Pass only gets you into one or two attractions for free; depends on which hour option you select. Visitors are then offered reduced tickets at the rest of the locations around the city. The 48-hour pass runs 28 Euros (31 USD) while the 72-hour pass runs 38.50 Euros (43 USD). Each Roma Pass does include unlimited access to all forms of public transportation. Note: be aware that some places, like the Colosseum, require pre-booking. Some locations even offer fast-track or skip-the-line, but this is not universal across the city. In this case, the Roma pass does allow travelers the opportunity to save money, but not so much on time. Each pass also includes a free guidebook, bus tour map, and metro map as well. $$

Omnia Card – Another pass option in Rome is the Omnia Card. This card, however, combines entry into Vatican City as well as locations throughout Rome. Similar to the Roma Pass, the Omnia Card grants access to only two sites in the Vatican. This option includes the additional two sites in Rome as well. The Omnia Card option is only available in the 72-hour option which simply means a higher price tag; 113 Euros (125 USD) per person. Not to mention that shipping runs an additional 4-10 Euros (5-11 USD) worldwide OR visitors are welcome to pick-up their passes while in Rome for free. Much like the Roma Pass, visitors are also provided with a free guidebook as well as fast-track entry into both selected locations. Note: pre-booking is mandatory for the Vatican and Sistine Chapel. Because we were interested in seeing the Sistine Chapel, we opted to purchase the Omnia Card but somehow paid more than what the pass was listed for online; we even bought through the official website too. In comparison to our experiences using passes similar to this in other countries, this one is not worth it! $$$

St. Peter’s Basilica – Located within Vatican City, St. Peter’s Basilica is often seen as the heart of the Catholic church. The church itself is divided into subsections with “guards” at each and exit. I was unclear about whether this was to “protect” people or simply direct the flow of traffic, but they were very persistent about not being able to enter through the exit and vice versa. In either case, this place is massive – the pictures and online descriptions do not provide enough justice. Located within the church itself, visitors will find huge statues, such as Michelangelo’s first commission, as well as stunning architecture and design. There are two mummified popes on display, however, patrons are unable to go below the altar to see the tombs of past popes. There’s even a museum of treasury located down a side-hallway, but there is an additional fee for entry.

Similar to Brunelleschi’s Dome in Florence, St. Peter’s Basilica also has a Cupola (dome) in which visitors can climb to overlook Rome’s city centre. Unfortunately, entry into the Cupola is not included with the Omnia Card. In fact, they only accept cash. Patrons can pay 10 Euros (11 USD) to use the elevator then climb 320-steps OR 8 Euros (9 USD) to only climb 551-steps. For the sake of clarity though, we opted out of either choices because our energy levels were completely depleted by this point in the trip.

While entry into Saint Peter’s Basilica is free of charge, visitors must first pass through a long line at security. Even during the “off season,” the line was close to an hour’s wait. One benefit of purchasing the Omnia Card for this location is that patrons get to skip the line at the security check point and enter ahead of everyone else. Note: pre-booking is required though.

Vatican Museums – The Musei Vaticani is comprised of eccentric religious artifacts, paintings, sculptures, bust, etc. – if you name it, they have it. In addition to St. Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican Museums are home to the history and development of the Catholic church throughout the rise and fall of the Roman Empire, and then some. If you enjoy learning about the progression of the Catholic faith over time, maneuvering through each of the various museums on site will take all day. However, if you’re like us and just interested in the Sistine Chapel, you can bypass the majority of the museum. Entry is included as part of the Omnia Card, but pre-booking is required. Through the Omnia Card, you must arrive 15-minutes before your scheduled tour to the Omnia center in Vatican City to await your “tour guide.” At the instructed time, they will lead you to the entrance of the museum, get you past security, then leave. Italians clearly misinterpret the meaning of “guided tour.”

The rest of the museums are made-up of other artifacts, paintings, sculptures, and various pieces of art to represent parts of the history of the development and fall of the Roman Empire. There is not one, but two restaurants on site as well as a mix of large and small gift shops at random points throughout the museum, and even within the exhibitions too. In other words, it is very tourist-based; not that the Catholic church is short on money.

The Vatican Museums houses one of Michelangelo’s most recognizable pieces of art, the Sistine Chapel. However, in order to reach it, you must walk through 80% of the rest of the museum. In other words, you can’t just walk up to it. Unfortunately, once inside the Sistine Chapel, pictures are strictly forbidden. Guards are placed throughout to prevent tourists cocky enough to try. In my case, just make sure your flash is turned off and wait until no one’s looking. It can’t hurt what they don’t know about.

Castel Sant’Angelo – In just a few minutes walk from Vatican City, Castel Sant’Angelo provides visitors an inside look into the lives and inner-workings of a fully-functioning armory during the 15th century. The Castel Sant’Angelo is structured in a way that leads visitors in a wave-like motion from the bottom all the way to the very top; basically following a pre-determined path with no room for deviation. In addition to the castle itself, visitors are presented with different artifacts uncovered from the restoration of the site. At the very top of the castle sits the statue of Archangel Michael. The statue itself acts as a homing beacon that easily attracts visitors from every direction within the city. Once visitors reach the top of the castle, they are immediately presented with a 360-degree view of the city, stretching out for miles. While there isn’t much to see, or do, within the castle walls, the views offered are absolutely worth the cost of entry; 15 Euros (17 USD) per person. Note: entry included as one of the few locations provided through the Roma Pass.

On site visitors can also find a small cafe on one of the top floors that also offers a spectacular view of the city. Since the castle was originally constructed in the 1400’s, keep in mind that visitors are required to climb up and down several flights of stairs with no alternatives; not handicap friendly. If you find the trip worth the price, I would recommend planning at least 1.5-2 hours to fully appreciate the castle’s history, maybe more if you enjoy a pit-stop at the Cafe. $$

Trevi Fountain – Easily the most recognizable foundation in the world, the Fontana di Trevi spans 65 feet across and 35 feet tall and depicts Neptune and his sea horse friends. As pictured below, the Trevi Fountain is becoming the most popular tourist attraction in all of Rome. In other words, it’s a madhouse to get to it. Even during the “off season,” there was a herd of people surrounding every available square inch of the fountain. It took a lot of pushing and shoving, and patience, to get close enough without our pictures being obstructed by other tourists. If you’re brave, or patient, enough, the center of the fountain offers the best picturesque views. However, the sides of the fountain works equally as well.

Fortunately enough, most people come and go quickly once they’ve snagged their insta-worthy picture. In this case, patience is certainly a virtue! If you are heavily claustrophobic, or just hate masses of people in general, the fountain is large enough to catch a glimpse of in passing too. For those cheapskates out there, myself included, the fountain is “free” to visit, unless you count the traditional coin toss. Keep in mind that, even though the fountain is free to visit, there is security preventing people from getting too close or sitting on the fountain itself. Note: following the close of our trip, the city of Rome have recently started debates regarding putting a gate, or blockade, around the fountain to prevent people from disposing of unwanted substances in it.

Pantheon – If you can believe it, the Pantheon, known as the Basilica Sancta Mara by the locals, is the oldest Roman structure to remain fully in tact. No kidding! The building that stands today dates back to 118 AD. For a city that is widely known as having fallen, they’ve certainly done an amazing job of preserving this building. The Pantheon is also most notably recognized for having the largest, unsupported, open, dome in the world.

To this day, the Pantheon is still considered a place of worship with pews centrally located in front of the alter at the very back of the structure. Visitors will also find religious artifacts such as statues and carvings throughout. With that in mind, if you plan on visiting, please be mindful and respectful of those there for prayer. While entry into the Pantheon itself is free, guided and audio tours are both available for an additional fee and available in eight different languages. Unlike other locations throughout Rome, visitors will find there are no security checkpoints here. However, you can easily expect a large crowd of people any time of the day. $

The Colosseum – One of the most common misconceptions about Rome many tourists have is that everything in the city is centrally located, when in fact, the city itself spans almost 500 square miles. That’s a lot of ground to cover in just a few days! If you’re staying near the Vatican, keep in mind that other historical sites, much like the Colosseum, will required a 25-30 minute walk in the opposite direction. Due to our use of the Roma Pass, we were required to pre-book our tickets and time slot to the Colosseum before our departure from the States.

Despite having booked our tickets ahead of time, getting into the actual Colosseum was one, excuse my language, master cluster-fuck. I can’t honestly think of any other way to describe it. Even though there is heavy security surrounding the outside of the building itself, we were redirected by separate security guards three different times. This also required us to wait in three different lines too. Between waiting in line and attempting to get through security, we spent over an hour just trying to get inside. This was a vastly different experience for me compared to my first visit back in 2007. Not to mention that there was a massive hoard of people, in every direction you turned.

Due to restoration and construction efforts on behalf of the City, a large portion of both the outside and inside of the Colosseum are blocked off. This leaves only a small, semi-circle, on the bottom and middle levels to navigate. Unfortunately, at this point, the Colosseum is a massive pile of ruins with limited to see. On the second floor, however, visitors will find an exhibition about the history of Carthage. We spent maybe 30-45 minutes actually inside the Colosseum, but the mass of people quickly became overwhelming which forced us to leave. There is a book/gift shop as well as bathrooms (which I would avoid at all costs).

Roman Forum – Also known as the Foro Romano, the Roman Forum is commonly associated with the Colosseum due to its location directly next to it. With that being said, visitors are pushed to enter the Forum on the left-hand side as they are leaving the Colosseum. Take my word for it – do not be fooled by this side entrance! The line to get through security runs a mile long; only a slight exaggeration. Still, what security avoids telling you is that there is a separate entrance on the right-hand side of the Forum, near the ticket counter. This is where you will want to enter with your Roma Pass.

Much like the Colosseum, the Roman Forum is comprised of mostly ruins from the places where some of the greatest minds in Roman history gathered to think and express their ideas. Even though the site is full of ruins, there is much more to see and explore compared to the Colosseum; a lot of the site is also under construction/restoration. Also on site is the Temple of Romulus – a museum of artifacts previously found or unearthed at the Forum. Since there is so much to see here, I would say you could easily wander around for hours, getting lost in the history and significance of the site. If you aren’t interested in seeing the whole property, you can easily see parts of the ruins from the street; at least worth a stop by for a picture! Note: entrance into the Colosseum with the Roma Pass also includes entry into the Forum. $

Largo di Torre Argentina (Roman Cat Sanctuary) – If you know me at all, you can easily guess, based on the name, what brought us to this site! Our initial interest in this site peaked over the course of our time in Rome as we had passed it on several occasions. After a little bit of research though, we found that it was also home to a cat sanctuary. As you may have noticed, a lot of Rome is full of abandoned ruins; this should be shocking to anyone. Thus, there really isn’t much to see or look at here either – visitors cannot walk around the main site, but the ruins themselves are visible on all sides. However, you can visit the cat sanctuary located down the stairs just to the side of the ruins.

Feral Feline Colonies Torre Argentina – I was in cat heaven visiting the cat sanctuary on site. A non-profit organization dedicated to rescuing and preventing future breeding of cats throughout all of Italy. During our visit, we learned that Italy is a no-kill country, which means they don’t euthanize their cats and dogs like America seems all too pleased to do. At this sanctuary’s location, they currently have over 130+ cats living both inside and throughout the ruins. Even if you are a hardcore cat admirer like myself, please consider donating to their important cause!