Out of all the places I’ve had the pleasure of traveling in my life, I’ll be the first to admit that Iceland was never a blimp on my radar for possible travel locations. That is until a family-friend mentioned that it was on their bucket list and, after some research, I found that tickets were reasonably priced during the off-season. Most importantly, Iceland completely changed my perception of the natural wonders our beautiful planet has to offer. I am, by no means, a fan of nature a part from the fact that it helps circulate the air I breathe. And yet, my time in Iceland changed all of that.
Car Rental:
Road Conditions – In addition to Iceland having a bad reputation for being pricy, a lot of people are easily put-off by the rumored driving conditions. I’m here to tell you to stop being so easily swayed by others. The likelihood of experiencing the same exact weather conditions as someone else, who clearly didn’t do their research beforehand, is slim-to-none. Like all good travel plans, be proactive. Road.is is a great tool to use to check out road closures and conditions around the entire country. If the road appears red on the map, it’s closed. Find another route – simple as that!
You will find that the country/island is covered in gravel and some places require off-road driving in order to reach them. A lot of company’s offer “gravel insurance” as part of your car rental – take it! The likelihood you’ll actually use it is limited, but it’s better to be safe than sorry. If you have the option, get an SUV or other 4×4 vehicle. My husband and I were limited in our travels and adventures because our car was too small to drive off-road. Wind insurance is another popular tourist-attraction, but that depends entirely on the time of year you travel. Note: driving with your lights on is required year-round. In case of an emergency though, dial #112.
For our needs, we used Lotus car rentals. No matter where you rent from though, be sure to double-check that you get unlimited miles. We spent a lot of time driving around so this feature certainly came in handy. Standard packages at most companies come with this option, but it doesn’t hurt to triple check that way you don’t have to worry about where or how far you’re driving each day. Unfortunately, everything you read online about gas prices is accurate. You’re looking to spend about 6.50 USD per gallon. That translates to about $80 American dollars to fill your tank. Keep in mind that we drove for hours in the opposite direction compared to our hotel on multiple occasions due to poor planning on my part and even then we only filled-up three times during our 10-day stay.
Communication
According to Iceland records, the official primary language spoken is Icelandic. However, you will find that the majority of residents, “the locals,” speak English as their primary language. Icelandic is an Indo-European language closely related to Faroese and Norwegian with Celtic heritage. However, during our ten day stay throughout the Eastern, Southern, and Western regions of Iceland, we didn’t encounter anyone who spoke using this language. This does not mean that they don’t speak Icelandic, just that they are probably so used to tourists that it’s easier for them to speak using English. Once again, you can easily tell their preference in language by the way they say “hello” or introduce themselves. Don’t be afraid to do a bit of research beforehand though, you may just impress them with your language skills!
The Golden Circle
Things to Do: The most popular tourist attraction in all of Iceland is often known as the “Golden Circle.” This 186-mile route provides a scenic view of the natural wonders Iceland has to offer. Many hotels in the surrounding areas offer tours and guides for a reasonable price, but there’s nothing like driving yourself and stopping at each destination on your own time. The places listed below are amongst the most visited locations of the circle.
Bruarfoss Waterfalls – There certainly isn’t a shortage of waterfalls anywhere you go in Iceland. While the Bruarfoss Waterfalls were on my “to-do” list while traipsing the Golden Circle, unfortunately time did not allow for us encounter these particular falls. What they don’t tell you is that these falls are located at the end of a 3.5 km (2 miles) hike. This is no big deal if you are aware ahead of time, but unfortunately I was not privy to that information. Be sure to plan ahead!
Gulfoss Falls – Also located along the Golden Circle trail, these waterfalls are the largest of their kind. Similarly to the other waterfalls, there is a path that leads you directly to the top so you can overlook theses massive and thunderous falls. This path in particular is much easier to climb in comparison to the stairs at Skogafoss. There are two parking lots, one at the bottom and one at the top of the falls. My pictures certainly don’t provide justice to their beauty!
Kerid Crater – One of my favorite stopping points along the Golden Circle, this crater is a one-of-a-kind experience! My husband and I arrived just as the sun was rising, which provided a unique, but cold, experience. There is a small entrance fee to pay (roughly 5 USD), but worth it to maintain the property. We spent about an hour here walking the trail around the top as well as walking down the steps to the “lake” located within the crater itself. While I found this place to be quiet and serene, I can understand that many others might not want to spend much time walking around a hole in the ground. However, information packets are available on-site that provides a backstory to the formation of the crater. At least worth a pit-stop!
Strokkur Geyser – Not to be a Debbie-Downer, but this stop along the way was anticlimactic to say the least! While it is very cool to witness in person, I certainly wouldn’t plan a lot of time here. There is a restaurant and large gift shop with a hotel on site too. We spent about twenty minutes here, watched the geyser “explode” twice, and walked around to view the smaller geysers too. There are other trails around the area that take you deeper into the surrounding trees, but this didn’t fit in with our schedule for the day.
Places to Eat:
Keep in mind that the Golden Circle is 186-miles of pure, natural beauty. Along with that, though, there aren’t many dining options a part from grab-and-go lunches at local gas stations. There were a few places located off the traditional path that are worth stopping for!
Efstidalur Farms – In preparation for my trip to Iceland, I read a lot about Efstidalur Farms in relation to their ice cream being a “must have” while you’re there. Little did I know that the creamery side was only a small glimpse into the glory of this place! Not only is it a creamery, but upstairs there is a full restaurant and bar too. Both upstairs and downstairs there are windows to watch the dairy cows in action while scarfing down the creamiest ice cream you’ll ever eat. To top it off, although my mother-in-law who is vegetarian would certainly disagree, they serve the juiciest, most delicious burgers in the world. And I certainly have enough traveling experience to know! $$
Fridheimar – Another Icelandic hidden gem I stumbled across during my research! This place is awesome! Fridheimar started out as a tomato-farm, and turned into a full-fledged restaurant located inside the greenhouse itself. I was the most excited for this stop along our trip around the Golden Circle – they are becoming so popular that you have to make a reservation weeks in advance. Everything is tomato-based, and I mean everything! Although it sounds weird, they have the right set of skills to pull off even a tomato-based beer. Their menu offers an extensive variety of dining options (all with tomatoes of course), but their most popular menu-item is the endless tomato soup and homemade bread. Each table is adorned with a personal basil plant to suit your herb needs. Make sure you check out their dessert menu too! There is a bar on premise with a small gift shop near the checkout counter with take-home sauces. Pricy, but worth every penny! $$$
Notable Attractions:
The Golden Circle is probably the most notable, tourist-heavy, attraction in Iceland. And well worth the time and energy! While I can’t hop in my time machine to do things differently, I would recommend stopping at different points along the Circle to embrace all of Iceland’s natural wonders. Here are some other places along the way worthy of your time:
Keflavik
Things to Do: The main airport for travel is located in Keflavik, located 45-minutes outside of Reykjavik. Instead of beginning our journey here, we decided to spend our last few hours in town traveling this particular peninsula. Most of these sites are within a 10-minute drive from one another with the Duus Museum only a 5-minute drive from the airport.
Bridge between two continents – Right down the street from the Reykjanes Lighthouse, this bridge connects the European and North American continents. You’re essentially standing on two continents at once! There is an official parking lot with a sign explaining the formation of this rift with a short 2-minute walk to the bridge itself.
Duus Museum – The Duus museum is an eclectic agglomeration of model boats as well as artifacts, modern art, and photography exhibits. Located throughout the museum, you will find a historic presentation of life on the peninsula dating back to the formation of Iceland itself. Within the same area, along the harbor, you will also find the Giantess’ Cave where a giant-sized sculpture sits.
There is a restaurant adjacent to the Duus Museum, Kaffi Duus, with, by far, the best Fish n’ Chips I’ve ever had. The outside and inside decor is nothing to write home about, but the food is definitely worth stopping in.
Reykjanes Lighthouse – The Reykjanes Lighthouse is located on the very outskirts of Keflavik, about a 5-minute drive from the Bridge. Situated adjacent to the cliffs, there is an official parking lot located on the left-hand side looking at the Lighthouse. While you can’t enter the actual lighthouse itself, there are stone steps built into the hillside that allows you to climb to the top. Keep in mind that this is also someone’s home/property so be mindful of the time of day you visit. Another 2-3 minute drive down the road will bring you to the cliffs themselves.
Stone Trolls – Myth, legend, or reality? The choice is up to you! These stone trolls are located all throughout Iceland and date back hundreds of years. Pictured below, one set of trolls by the Duus Museum offers a metal landing to see them up close – the view of the harbor isn’t too bad either!
Notable Attractions:
Although my husband and I didn’t stay in Keflavik, there are plenty of attractions and activities to keep you busy for days on end. In case you find yourself with a plethora of time on your hands, here are some other places to visit throughout the Reykjanes Peninsula:
UNESCO Global Geopark – Iceland
Reykjavik
The beloved capital of our fare Iceland, Reykjavik, is one of the most popular up-and-coming tourist destinations around the world! You’ll certainly find a plethora of activities, museums, and attractions, both free and for a small fee, to entertain yourself during your stay here.
Things to Do:
Blue Lagoon – Although the Blue Lagoon isn’t located centrally in downtown Reykjavik, this is the closest, most populated city, in relation. About an hour’s drive from Reykjavik, the Blue Lagoon is the most famous, and largest, geothermal pool in all of Iceland. The base package begins at 7000 ISK (just about 56 USD) and includes unlimited entrance to the pool, one drink of your choice (alcoholic and non-alcoholic alike), a towel, and basic silica mask. There are other packages available for purchase, but be prepared to spend quite the pretty penny for it.
Upon entrance, men and women are separated and shoveled into their gender’s corresponding locker room(s). They have extremely strict rules about using the facilities beginning with the necessity of showering before you are allowed to enter. Private shower stalls are available, but remember that you are no longer in Kansas and not everyone is as conservative with their body as you may have been led to believe they should. Advice: bring your bathing suit with you when you shower – simply drape it over the top of the stall and put it on afterwards (this will save you a step later on). When checking in, you are given an electric, water-proof wristband that connects to the card on file. In addition to buying food and drinks, this wristband allows you to lock and unlock your selected locker.
A lot of people warn against visiting the Blue Lagoon because it’s the number one tourist attraction in all of Iceland. In other words, it’s get very crowded and very quickly too. However, we opted for the early-morning time slot (before sunrise) and there were not many people out and about quite yet. This also gave us the opportunity to watch the sun rise from in the pool itself. Pretty cool! Not to worry though, if you are unable to arrive very early in the morning, the pool is huge – there are plenty of secluded areas and enough space to house hundreds of people without really noticing.
In total, we spent about four hours here. There is an upscale restaurant (requires reservations) and a cafe located on-site if you’d like to take a break from wading in the waters. Think of this place as a giant hot-tub. Located around the pool are different drink stations as well as a place to obtain your silica mask (included in purchase of a base ticket) or, if you’re feeling fancy, there are other mask options available for purchase too. $$$
City Centre – To experience the local-culture, the best activity you can do is to walk around the downtown city centre. You’ll find yourself in and out of all kinds of shops, both touristy and where the locals shop too.
Another fun aspect about walking around downtown is spotting out the local artist’s graffiti handiwork! Don’t be surprised to run into these beauties unexpectedly as they are around every corner in Reykjavik.
Eldhestar: Horseback Riding – Full disclosure about my horseback riding experience: I can’t tell if I actually enjoyed it or not. With that being said, we just so happened to choose the most popular riding company in the greater Reykjavik area. Located about 45-minutes outside of downtown, we booked the 1.5 hour “Heritage Tour.” According to the website, our tour was meant to take you through the lava fields, meadows, and a small river. In reality though, our tour guide took us in a giant loop around their property. At the beginning of your tour, riders are offered a brief (heavy emphasis on that brief) tutorial for “controlling” the reigns. I’m sure that if you know anything about horses, you know that they do as they please though. Hoping for a picturesque view of the mountain-side as the sun was setting, I booked our particular tour for the afternoon, about an hour or two before sunset. When selecting your time slot, be mindful that these horses trek the same trails 2-3 per day and are spent by the end of the day. On the other hand, it also means they are familiar with the terrain and it doesn’t require much work on your part either.
My husband and I have a running joke in our household that we have the worst luck possible. Therefore, it made perfect sense to us when our 1.5 hour tour turned into 2.5 hours and a ruined pair of boots. But I digress: I am probably 100% biased after being thrown from a horse when I was younger. It’s also probably 100% true about horses being able to sense your fear. In any case, our instructor was new and the horse kept getting spooked by the local children playing outside. Needless to say, upon returning to the barn, we rushed out very quickly and did not get to enjoy our complimentary tea and cookies. If you are not an avid horse-rider, I would recommend bypassing this experience and grab a beer somewhere instead. Also, it’s expensive. $$$
Grotta Lighthouse – There’s just something about a lighthouse that draws you to the coastal region! The Grotta lighthouse in particular offers a wide, open-view of the harbor. In the wintertime, unfortunately the stairs to the top are closed. Note: this is the best place to catch a view of the Northern Lights at night.
Hallgrimskirkja Church – What I love most about Iceland in general is that the vast majority of their attractions are free. Not that I’m cheap by any means, I just appreciate being able to enter somewhere to look at something without being charged an arm-and-a-leg. With that being said, you do have to pay ride the elevator to the top floor. If you’re also anything like me, you dislike heights as well as long-lines, and, unfortunately, this elevator had both. Therefore, I personally did not take the elevator up, but to each their own! If you’re still in downtown in the evening time, be sure to swing by again to see the church lit up. It’s quite the sight!
Harpa Concert Hall – This beautiful building can be seen anywhere in downtown Reykjavik. You are free to wander the halls and peek into some of the auditoriums, but do keep in mind that this is a running venue which means some areas will be closed for private events or, you know, concerts. There is a concert schedule located in the main hall – be sure to check it out and grab tickets to a show while you’re in town!
Holavallagardur Cemetery – Located directly across the street from Tjnorin Park, this cemetery provides a historic look into Reykjavik’s past. The majority of gravestones date as far back as the early-1800’s. Free to walk around – be sure to avoid at night those so as not to disturb the spirits.
National Museum of Iceland – Despite the countless hours spent preparing for my travels, I still somehow manage to experience everything out of order. With that in mind, be sure to pay a visit to the National Museum of Iceland first. Here you will find a lot of information, in chronological order, to show the growth of Icelandic culture and development of religion too. While there are only two floors of artifacts, some are completely encased in glass with others stuffed into pull-out drawers. There are even artifacts tucked into the floorboards!
You should expect to spend at least two hours here, minimum, as a good portion of your time will be spent reading. Nonetheless, the timeline of Icelandic culture even dates back to modern-times to show the development of the country and its people over hundreds of years. Tickets cost 2,000 ISK per person (roughly 16 USD) OR 2,000 ISK total (still roughly 16 USD) with valid student ID. $$
The Northern Lights – The most popular time of year to “see” the Northern Lights is during November-April. Keep in mind that they are not always visible from shore – you need to find a dark and isolated location to see them. Although the night sky appears clear, remember that cloud coverage plays a large role in your ability to see them. This is known as the KP index (probability of visibility) – the higher the number the more likely you are to view the lights. The link provided here is to the site Vedur.is which offers hourly coverage, and probability, of seeing the lights.
I’ve always been under the firm belief that I shouldn’t have to pay to view a natural occurring phenomenon. And yet, my need to see the lights got the better of me on our last day in town. We booked a boat tour through Special Tours Iceland to the tune of 10,900 ISK (about 89 USD) per person. Our boat, pictured above, just so happened to have the same name as my best friend so I took this as a sign that we were sure to see some “light action” that night! As you can see in the very top picture, we witnessed a mere glimpse of the lights. While it wasn’t everything I hoped it to be, this tour group does offer a transfer of your ticket if the lights are not clearly visible the night of your original booking – just don’t wait until your last night to book your first tour like we did. By no means am I disappointed in booking this tour – everything you read online about seeing the lights is a strong disservice to the average traveler. The lights come in waves. Pay attention and enjoy the moment! You never know if you’ll have another like it.
The Perlan: Wonders of Iceland – Also known as “the Pearl,” the Perlan is a four-story museum presenting the formation and history of Icelandic culture! The main entrance, or second floor, drops you in the land of lava fields and earthquakes as you understand the process of the physical traits to Iceland’s landmass structure. Beneath the main floor you’ll find a series of photo galleries as well as the restroom and staff entrance. Back on the third floor, you’ll explore the wonders of Iceland’s oceanic life and the first-ever indoor man-made glacier! Note: be sure to book your tour for the glacier upon purchasing tickets. At the very top of the building, in addition to the upscale restaurant/cafe, you’ll encounter an observation deck that provides a 360 degree panoramic view of downtown Reykjavik. Ticket prices range from 2,900 ISK (about 23 USD) or 2,500 ISK (about 20 USD) with a valid student ID; each ticket purchase includes entry to the glacier and observation deck too. We spent about 2.5 hours here wandering around as there is a lot of reading and informational videos. Plan accordingly! $$
Pufa – From far away, this attraction looks inviting. Up close though, you’ll find yourself standing in front of a sculpture of an outhouse with fish drying inside. In other words, a grassy-mound with fish heads on top. This sculpture provides a social commentary on the fishing industry. While the mound itself isn’t as thrilling as it first appears, it does provide a panoramic view of the mountains surrounding Reykjavik. $$
Sun Voyager Sculpture – In homage to the Vikings who first settled Iceland, this sculpture sits alongside the harbor within a 5-minute walk from the Harpa Concert Hall. Although a very popular tourist attraction, it at least makes for a nice picture and resting spot to recoup before your next adventure!
Whales of Iceland – If you’re anything like me, then you’re obsessed with Narwhal’s – the most underrated whale of it’s kind. Also known as “the Unicorn of the Sea,” if it has anything to do with whales, I’m there. Lucky enough for me, downtown Reykjavik has an entire museum dedicated to them. This place was recommend to us by one of the locals we spoke to over a drink at the bar. While we were told it’s free, I’m sorry to disappoint that it’s not. To the tune of 2,900 ISK (about 23 USD) or 2,500 ISK (about 20 USD) with a valid student ID, I would say that this is museum is not worth the price. The place itself is super interesting with an audio guide (available in different languages) as well as real-life skeletons from various whale species. However, unless you’re an avid whale-enthusiast (whatever that means), I would recommend that you stop by for some pictures of the outside and move along with your day. $$
Notable Attractions:
While we had initially planned to spend three full days in Reykjavik, we were so mesmerized by the natural beauty of the country that we opted to leave the city in search of more experiences of the like. With that in mind, we weren’t able to tour and fully experience the City Centre. Here is a list of pit stops we intend to visit on our next trip:
Oddities:
I think it’s safe to say that all of Iceland is pretty odd, which makes perfect sense because it’s my currently my favorite place amongst all my travels. Needless to say, Iceland and Icelandic folklore has a lot of weird attributes, but that’s what makes it one-of-a-kind. Just in case the other places didn’t satisfy your curiosity, be sure to check out these oddities too:
Icelandic Elf School – Reykjavik
Icelandic Phallological Museum – Reykjavik
Shark Museum – Bjarnarhofn
Svartifoss – Skaftafell National Park
Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft – Holmavik
Money-Saving Travel Guide:
Unlike most places I’ve had the pleasure of visiting, Iceland has an abundance of free activities, museums, galleries, natural wonders, etc. Nonetheless, it’s always nice to have “back-up” plans in case your original itinerary falls through. Here are other budget-friendly places to visit across the island:
Asmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Garden
Places to Eat:
Baejarins Beztu Pylsur – Singlehandedly the best hotdog I’ve ever had! Have you noticed a theme yet about the food in Iceland? In all honesty, you can find one of these bad-boys anywhere in Iceland, but these carts make it their specialty. Be aware that their staple on a hot dog is both fried and fresh onions. Bring mints! $
Bergsson Mathus – Located in the city centre, they are only open for breakfast, lunch, or, for our slow-risers, brunch. Very popular with the locals, Bergsson Mathus offers the traditional Icelandic breakfast made in house daily. $$
Hlemmur Matholl (Food Hall) – Think of an Icelandic Food Hall as an upscale mall food court with better food. There are about five small eateries and two bars located on-site. My husband and I tried Fuego (Taco Bar) and Krost (Grill & Wine Bar) which were both delicious, but offered very small portions. $-$$$
Icelandic Craft Bar – Great place to try different local Icelandic beers on tap! The food and atmosphere is a cross between Icelandic and Scandinavian. Although I didn’t personally try the food, it certainly smelled delicious! $$
Joylato – Only a hop, skip, and jump away from Krua Thai, Joylato is an organic-based gelato company. The best way to enjoy an after dinner snack without feeling guilty! Keep in mind that, because it is a small company, there are limited flavors and toppings are available for an additional fee. $$
Krua Thai – Conveniently located in downtown Reykjavik, if you’re craving delicious Thai food, I would highly recommend Krua Thai. The staff is super friendly and the hostess stand is covered in sticky-notes from previous guests. Portion sizes are large – even from the kids menu too! $
Lobster Hut – The only downside to to this food truck is that it is only open from 9 PM – 5 AM Friday and Saturday evenings. I promise you that the lobster sandwiches here are worth staying up late and waiting in line for an exorbitant amount of time. The large sandwiches cost about 2,500 ISK (or 20 USD), but the portion is more than you’d receive in the United States for freshly caught lobster of the same price. $$$
Reykjavik Chips – Remember that “chips” overseas refers to french fries and what better place to visit for a late-night drunken snack than a shack dedicated solely to them! Each fry order comes with the selection of two signature sauces with the option of more for a small fee. Well worth the price and super crispy! $
Accommodations:
I am by no means a spokesperson for Air B&B and, in fact, I strongly dislike the idea of it in general, but my personal experiences should not dissuade you from doing what fits your style or budget. We were lucky enough to find an entire apartment on Air B&B though in downtown Reykjavik within 10-minutes walking distance of most attractions AND free parking. This particular place was nice because it also included a washer and dryer which was much-needed at this point in our stay. It was also fully equipped and stocked with a kitchen and cooking supplies – although we didn’t utilize these utilities.
This aspect of any vacation is usually the most expensive and hotels in downtown Reykjavik certainly live up to that reputation. Do some research and pick what fits your needs. If you are traveling with young ones, I would highly recommend Air B&B as the most viable option.
Snaefellsnes Peninsula
Things to Do: In all honesty, we found ourselves bored with the hustle-and-bustle of downtown Reykjavik and were eager to get away merely hours after settling in. Cue the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. We opted to leave the city and head north to visit the natural wonders of Iceland versus visiting the various cultural and historical museums readily available. So worth the drive!
Snaefellsjokull National Park – The National Park here is the focal point of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. In order to reach this park though, you’ll have to drive three hours North of Reykjavik. Keep in mind that this stop was not originally part of our plans, but time permitted and we were certainly thrilled by our experiences in the end.
City of Arnarstapi – Also marked by a metal-grated walkway, there are two paths in this area that lead to separate observation decks for easy viewing. There is also a monument at this site to honor the local deity (pictured below). You will also find a restaurant here, Arnarbaer, with reasonably-priced delicious food.
Londrangar: Volcanic Cliffs – I always recommend starting with the furthest point and slowly making your way back inland. In this case, the Volcanic Cliffs are the furthest-most point on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. There is a parking lot located just off the highway with an easily accessible, metal, walkway to an observation deck that overlooks the cliffs. Or, if you’re feeling more on the adventurous side, there are several hiking paths that allow travelers to easily walk straight to the edge of the cliffs. Just be careful walking along the cliffs as the edges may be eroded, but hard to see from a distance.
Raudfeldsgja Gorge (Ravine) – The best part about this National Park is that the majority of the worthy stopping points are within a 10-15 minute drive of one another. The Raudfeldsgja Gorge is actually located behind a rock wall – embedded into the mountain-side. From the car park, it’s a steep 20-minute hike up hill to the top of the valley. You’ll need water proof shoes to muddle your way through the small stream to enter the ravine itself. Here you will find a small waterfall (the cause of the stream) you can easily walk up to as well. Fun, short hike with excellent views!
Serial Killer: Axlar-Bjorn – If you’re anything like my husband and I, then you appreciate the weird. Due to Iceland’s friendly culture, it makes sense that there has only been one recorded serial killer since the 1800’s. Only a seven-minute drive from the Volcanic Cliffs, you will find the first burial site for Axlar-Bjorn. I say first because the people were so paranoid by his actions that they chopped his body into thirds and dispersed these parts in three different locations. At this particular location, there is a pile of stones marking the gravesite. There is also a plaque in front providing the backstory for Axlar-Bjorn. If time permits, and the sunlight is in your favor, try driving around to find all three locations!
Songhellir Cave(s) – Only five minutes down the road from the Volcanic Cliffs (Londrangar), these caves offer a spectacular view of the mountain region! There are multiple caves strung together, but only big enough to fit one abled body at a time. The third cave, pictured below, has a fun pop-up lookout where you can visibly see a full 360 degree view of the area. Definitely worth popping by!
Despite our best efforts to cram all of these sites into a single day, we were unfortunately too late to actually experience the Lava Tunnel located within Snaefellsjokull National Park. According to my own research, this tunnel takes you deep underground to witness the formation of Iceland’s caves and infrastructure up close. Because I am paranoid about not making it places on time, I did research their hours, but of course the hours differ during Winter. My advice would be to call ahead as the staff weren’t at all concerned with turning us away at the door. The entrance fee is 3750 ISK per person (or 30 USD), but includes the necessities such as a head lamp and a guided tour through the underground tunnels. $$
Notable Attractions:
There are plenty of locations to visit while on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. If I could travel back in time and re-plan my trip, I would make it a point to stay in this area for a few days instead of booking so much time in Reykjavik. While we never had the opportunity to visit these sites, here is a list of other note-worthy places within the Snaefellsjokull National Park:
Buoakirkja Church (Black Church)
Djupalonssandur & Dritvik (Black Lava Pearl Beach)
Raudameks Olkelda Mineral Spring
Vik
My favorite aspect of traveling anywhere through Iceland is the isolation of the entire country. The small town of Vik, located Southeast of the capital, Reykjavik,
Your first stop needs to be the Information Center in downtown Vik. The staff is very knowledgeable regarding the area and super down to Earth too. They can provide you with maps of the area as well as offer recommendations for activities and local places to eat. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get a surprise visit from the three-legged cat that runs around.
Things to Do:
There aren’t many activities available in the immediate downtown area, but plenty of options minutes away. The church pictured below offers a beautiful view of the city of Vik with the Reynisfjara (Black Beach) just off-shore. Just up the hill from this church, you’ll find a quaint graveyard of the locals – if you’re into that type of sight-seeing.
Jokulsa (Plane Crash) – Completely off the beaten path, this unique site allows for an up close and personal view of a Navy plane crash back in the early-seventies. Unlike the rest of the touristy spots located in Vik, this site is not as well-marked. However, simply look for cars that line the road on your way West of downtown Vik, and you’ll know you’ve reached the right place. While the parking lot isn’t marked, the path to the plane itself is clearly outlined. Pack your walking shoes because you are in for a long hike – about an hour’s walk each way! I would recommend arriving before the sun rises, that way the sun is just peeking over the horizon as you arrive to the plane itself. There is also considerably less people at this time too. Be careful of the wind as it will pull you every which way. And most importantly, be respectful of others taking pictures. Plan at least a half-day for this activity. And don’t feel badly either, everyone survived the crash!
Reynisfjara (Black Beach) – As a native-born Floridian, I’ve seen my fair share of beaches during my lifetime. And yet, there is nothing quite like walking on the black, sandy beaches of Reynisfjara to bring a new twist to the same old thing. This is, by far, the most popular and touristy spot in all of Vik. Don’t be shocked to bus loads of people walking around! There’s a small restaurant/cafe located on site in case you need a breather from everyone else, or you simply want to get out of the cold, windy weather. Trust me when I tell you that the waves on this beach are like none you’ve ever seen. Called “sneaker waves” by the locals, they do not abide by the typical currents that you may be used to in the United States. Tourists have died! Stay back and heed the local’s warnings. If not, take my word for it – I tried to get the “perfect picture” and ended up soaked from the waist down.
Places to Eat:
Keep in mind that, by small town, I really mean petite, yet modest, miles from actual civilization. And every square inch is worth the drive! There is a considerably small amount of dining options scattered about town, but luckily there is a local supermarket to meet any dietary restrictions, or cravings, that some of the local places don’t meet.
Iceland has a bad reputation when it comes to price – a lot of tourists are immediately turned away because they think it’s too expensive. However, I would argue that you could wager that any country around the world has its highs and lows with any aspect of society. To help offset the cost, I would recommend sharing plates when possible or ordering from the kid’s menu; many places don’t hold restrictions on ordering from these menus. Tipping isn’t required, although always appreciated, which could also help lower the cost of your meals. Most importantly, always look for places with a happy hour!
For our risk-takers out there, Iceland does have an eclectic variety in menu items you wouldn’t traditionally find elsewhere. My suggestion is to be adventurous! Menu items like beef tongue, reindeer, lamb, and even horse meat are customary throughout the whole country. The worst that could happen is that you don’t like it!
Smidjan Brewery & Brewpub – Located in the heart of “downtown” Vik, this brewery and brewpub is a relaxing and peaceful hangout to grab a few beers and delicious food after a long day of hiking and/or sight-seeing. $
The Soup Company – Part restaurant, part lava show. What more is there to say? Delicious soup options with free homemade bread and butter. Vegetarian choices too! $$
Accommodations:
Hotel Katla – One of the newer, higher-end hotels in the area, the nice thing about this hotel is that it’s only about ten minutes from downtown Vik and isolated from the other hotels in the area. The hotel itself is undergoing the renovation process so you’ll find a combination of modern-style rooms as well as traditional-styled rooms. We were fortunate enough to stay in the newly renovated area (rooms #100-215) in a King Suite. The room itself offered a 180 degree view of the surrounding hills over-looking the road into downtown Vik. There is both a geothermal pool and sauna on-site for those daring to brave the cold to get in!
Be very careful with your booking if you plan to book through their website! The system only allowed me to reserve the room under a single person, but we were charged more upon check-in for a second guest. Granted, this could have been entirely my fault and I could have easily missed something during the online reservation process – double check each step along the way!
Breakfast is included in the price with a buffet served from 7:00 AM – 10:00 AM daily. The food was delicious and even included a variety of local cuisine too. A dinner buffet is available for purchase, to the tune of 59 USD per person. I would highly recommend that you forgo this option and check out more local dining options downtown. More importantly, the hotel offers daily happy hour between 4:00 – 6:00 PM with very reasonably priced drinks. $$
East of Vik:
Hjorleifshofdi Caves – My husband and I just so happened to stumble upon these caves on our way back from Glacier Lagoon. The path is hard to find if you’re just driving by looking for it – I would recommend plugging it into your GPS. In order to reach the caves, you’ll turn onto a dirt/gravel road and drive for about five minutes. When we went during the winter time, there was no one in sight! These caves just so happen to sit on a Black Sand Beach too; the time of year we went the waves weren’t visible, but you could certainly hear them. This would be a great location for puffin-watching, but keep in mind that they fly South during the winter!
Mossy Lava Rocks – You can see these beauties no matter where you drive in Iceland. About five minutes shy of the Hjorleifshofdi Caves, there’s an outlook that allows you to pull over and get up close. Definitely a sight worth stopping for!
Jokulsarlon (Glacier Lagoon) – When in Iceland, you have to visit a glacier! What other opportunity will allow you to hold a glacier? If you’re staying in Vik, you’ll want to wake up early as the lagoon is located 2.5 hours from downtown. However, it’s highly unlikely that you’ll miss it due to the fact that is one road in all of Iceland. You’ll want to use extreme caution on your drive to and from as Iceland is infamous for one lane bridges. In order to reach the lagoon you’ll cross a large metal bride (similar-looking to the Golden Gate, but still one lane) with a parking lot located directly in front of the lagoon itself. Parking and entrance is free, unless you are interested in booking a tour to get really up close and personal with these massive structures.
Down the road a ways you’ll find the only restaurant in the immediate area, Fjallsarlon Cafeteria (also known as “Frost Restaurant”), which offers a warm and inviting atmosphere. The staff is very friendly and knowledgeable about the area and it’s a great place to grab a snack and warm up after visiting the glaciers.
On the other side of the bridge, headed back towards Vik, you’ll find another parking lot that leads you directly to “Diamond Beach.” This black sand beach is full of glaciers, some small enough to pick up too! Just be careful of the “sneaker waves” closer to the water’s edge as well as make sure you wear gloves when picking up the glacier’s themselves – they’ve got tricky, sharp edges!
While my husband and I didn’t have the chance to stop at these other locations, if time and weather permits, they may be worth putting on your to-do list!
Falljokull Glacier – Located thirty minutes west of Glacier Lagoon.
Skaftafell National Park – If you’re planning to visit, be sure to give yourself plenty of time to hike to the Svartifoss Waterfall located two hours from the parking lot.
Fjadragljoufur Canyon – This gorgeous canyon is only accessible with a 4×4 vehicle and is located about 1.5 hours from Vik heading towards Jokulsarlon.
West of Vik:
Seljalandsfoss Waterfall – Another stopping point on your way back towards Reykjavik, these waterfalls allow you to walk behind them, need I say more? While the waterfalls and surrounding trails are free to visit, you do have to pay for parking. Note to self: you will get wet! Think ahead by packing an extra pair of clothes or wear waterproof shoes and/or pants if possible. Or, if you aren’t proactive, like in my case, utilize your car’s seat warmers to dry off faster. There are other, smaller, waterfalls, located on-site as well, but none quite as exquisite as Seljalandsfoss itself. In addition to a gift shop located at the entrance to the parking lot, you will also find a small cafe with soup, sandwiches, coffee, tea, hot chocolate, and delicious pastries to feed your appetite and warm your insides too!
Skogafoss Waterfall – If you’re traveling back towards Reykjavik from Vik, this is a fantastic stopping point for some afternoon sight-seeing. Easily seen from the side of the road, this gorgeous waterfall is free for visitors. There is an over-look located at the very top of the waterfall which offers an up close view of the thunderous falls. The path to the top though is a very steep climb on a metal-grated staircase – about fifteen minutes to the top without stopping. Definitely not for the faint of heart! Not to worry though, you can walk right up the bottom of the falls if you’re too nervous to climb to the top. There is even a “Bistro Bar” located on premise that provides a picturesque view of the falls with reasonably priced food with a small gift shop too.
Rutshellir Cave – As you are traveling West towards Reykjavik, about five minutes past Skogafoss, you’ll find these caves on the righthand side of the road. These small caves are interconnected and allows you to delve right into the side of a mountain!
Beyond Borders 