Hawaii

O’ahu

In the dead of winter in early 2023, I had had enough of the cold weather and chapped lips – yearning for the chance to decompress on a beach with a tropical drink in some far away land. Hawaii instantly popped into my mind and, once my mind is set, there’s no changing it. As a native Floridian, I could have easily waited a few weeks, then packed a bag to head to the closest beach within an hour’s drive. Trust me when I say that it is no where near the same as the tropical vacation that Hawaii offers its visitors.

The O’ahu island, also known as “The Gathering Place”, is home to Hawaii’s capital Honolulu. The third largest island, O’ahu sits tucked between Kalawao and Kauai. With a population of less than 100,000 residents, O’ahu is 44 miles across while it’s coastline stretches 227 miles from one end to the other. The island is home to a diverse population and highlights a stark contrast between post-WW2 era and modern times, with quaint surf towns situated in between. Whether you’re an avid beach goer, a hiker enthusiast, or eager to surf the waves, O’ahu offers a taste of something special for everyone.

What to know before you go:

The island is primarily plastic free. That means that straws, silverware, etc. are all made from composite. This also means that show bags are not provided at check out. The majority of the island uses reusable bags or pays to buy paper bags at the store.

Roosters roam freely throughout the island. They are not afraid of people. Tread carefully.

The majority of the restaurants follow contactless ordering and payment using QR codes on menus or the tables. While the bars in downtown are open late, the rest of the island follows island-time – businesses open and close early, especially on Sundays.

You can drive the length of the entire island in just over an hour. There are long stretches of land between major cities and destinations that offer a unique view of island-life. You’ll find that there are an abundance of lookout points while driving on backroads too. They drive more slowly than what you’re used to on the mainland – ranging from 25-35 mph on neighborhood streets and 45-55 mph on the highways. There is a high presence of law enforcement too. There is also a large military presence with multiple bases on and around the islands.

Uber and Lyft are popular here, but prices are higher than you’d expect. Within the city, public transportation via bus is common among the locals. There are bike and/or scooter rental stations around the island too. If you’re traveling outside the immediate city and don’t have tours planned from your hotel, you should rent a car. Parking is a pain – exorbitant prices to park overnight at your hotel – but there are public parking lots located throughout downtown, which is a more viable option.

The locals do not take kindly to smokers. There are a lot of “no smoking” or “in designated areas only” signs. Other than that, the locals are extremely friendly. The call everyone “uncle” or “auntie” with the belief that everyone is an extension of their own immediate family. With that being said, there is a large homeless population. You’ll see a lot camping out underneath bridges or in tent camps at the local beaches.

Accommodations:

Queen Kapiolani Hotel – Conveniently located on the East end of Waikiki Beach, the Queen Kapiolani Hotel was the perfect location far away from other tourists. Compared to other, more popular hotels, we enjoyed the quiet, relaxed vibe there.

Each guest is greeted with Hawaiian juice and a hospitality/resort fee up charge. The staff was very attentive and friendly and, overall, the hotel was very clean. For a spot to drop off your luggage, sleep, and change, it was still the most expensive part of our stay. The hotel offers valet parking for $50/night (plus tip), but there is a parking lot adjacent to the hotel for $1.50/hour. *Note: this parking lot becomes cut throat at night. Avoid moving your car after 5 pm if you want a spot.

We stayed in a suite, which is not the equivalent of what one may call a suite on the mainland. The room was small – a queen bed tucked into the corner, small closet, and a television/TV stand. A small, very uncomfortable couch sits across from the TV and it is nearly impossibly to watch TV from bed.

The hotel offers a daily drink happy hour and family-friendly activities like hula lessons, lei crafting, and surf lessons. The pool is located on the third floor, which offers picturesque views of Diamond Head. This is also where you will find the hotel’s restaurant, “The Deck”, which is also responsible for making and delivering room service throughout the hotel.

On the second floor, or mezzanine, one can find lounge chairs, couches, a fitness, and a business center. And, on the ground floor, there is a surf shop – for anything you accidentally left at home – and a small concession store. *Note: expect to pay high prices. There is an ABC store with lower prices and more options not two minutes walk from the hotel.

Things to Do:

Despite living in Florida, my husband and I rarely care to visit the beach. Blasphemy! Trust me, I know. So why did we pick Hawaii as our first travel destination post-COVID? Because, IT’S HAWAII. Need I say any more? Something can be said for exploring an island after being trapped in your home for years on end; the North Pacific Ocean was calling and I simply answered the phone.

Waikiki Beach – Whether you like the beach or shopping and eating, Waikiki Beach has a little of something for everyone. Along Kalakaua Avenue, you will find a plethora of local eateries mingled with high end stores and tacky tourist shops. There is beach access stretching the entire length of Waikiki Beach too.

This place comes alive in the afternoons and evenings as families wind down from long days at the beach or hiking through the mountains. ABC is a popular convenience store that is both a local-friendly and tourist heavy place to shop; these are located on every corner block. There is also a man-made inlet for worry-free swimming (i.e. sharks).

It’s a beautiful place to watch the sunset too!

Makapu’u Point and Lighthouse – The majority of our expeditions on O’ahu involved hiking. Our first stop, the Makap’u Point and Lighthouse, is the easiest hike the island offers. The “hike” follows a paved path from the bottom near the parking lot to the top (500 ft. gain – not above sea level) which overlooks the lighthouse on one side and Waimanalo Beach on the other. While the path is paved, there is a steep incline which ranges from easy to moderate. There are alternative gravel paths along the trail, with signs that clearly warn visitors away, but I have a bad habit of not following directions. With that being said, my husband often tells me that I’m likely to get myself killed. So, stay smart and vigilant – up your life insurance policy or stick to the paved road. There is a small path that takes you directly to the lighthouse, but even this was too close for comfort for me and not worth the risk.

The trail is two miles (roundtrip) and the trek down is much easier than going up. There is a small parking lot – with very limited parking availability – and becomes overcrowded very quickly. The trail is open from sunrise to sunset and there is no shade or coverage on the trail itself. To avoid heat exhaustion and a nasty sunburn, wear plenty of sunscreen, bring walking shoes, drink a lot of water, wear a hat and try to visit earlier or later in the day. Depending on your travel dates, the lookout point offers breathtaking views of Waimanalo Beach and a great place to whale watch.

Kuli’ou’ou Ridge Trail – Because I’m a glutton for punishment, I thought it’d be nice to take another casual stroll on day two. Travelers be forewarned: there is nothing “easy” or “casual” about this trail.

In order to reach the trail head, you have to drive to the very back of a neighborhood and park in a cul-de-sac or along the street in front of resident’s homes. If I hadn’t researched this trail beforehand, we would never have been able to find it of own accord. While the sign states that it’s 2.1 miles (each way – 4.2 roundtrip), my watch tracked in at 2.5 miles (each way – 5 roundtrip). This difference might seem minute, every. step. matters., especially if you are an occasional hiker. I would definitely recommend this trail for intermediate-to-advanced hikers, and, if you’re willing to brave to continuous steep incline, at least wear more than run of the mill tennis shoes. Your ankles will thank you.

For the most part, the trail is covered and shaded by trees. This also means that the path is comprised mostly of dirt, rocks, and tree roots (try not to trip!) until you are closest to the summit. There are limited trail markings, but the ground is clearly worn for wear from years of foot traffic. The last half mile is the steepest part of the trail – 300 dirt stairs separate you and the top.

Despite the incline and other dangers (yes, rocks, I’m speaking to you), the view at the top is completely worth it. One of the highest hike-able summits on the island, clocking in at 2,000 ft. elevation. Albeit windy, the lookout point offers a beautiful, uninterrupted view the island.

This trail is popular amongst locals and you’ll find that many residents bring their dogs along as well. Please just be mindful of others by picking up after your dog and leashing them so they don’t escape – you are on top of a mountain after all. Since we are not avid hikers – native Floridians, remember? – the trail took us 4 hours roundtrip. Mind you, there was a lot of water breaks and general “I can’t breath” from the elevation which elongated our hike. There are covered picnic tables located just before the dirt stairs that would serve as a great picnic spot if planned accordingly. Pack lots of water, then double that number, especially if you visit during the summer months like we did (August). At least there wasn’t any humidity, am I right? Despite my complaints and warnings (which you should still heed!!), this was my favorite hike from the entire trip. The views and the reconnection with nature was worth the blisters and sore muscles.

Diamond Head Crater & Trail – The most popular and widely known tourist attraction on O’ahu, the crater was formed about 300,000 years ago following an explosive eruption. Now, the attraction covers 475 acres offering tourists views of the Waikiki coastline and military bunkers built and maintained throughout WW2. With an elevation of 560 ft., the trail’s terrain is mostly flat stone and/or rock and there are a few sections of stairs that require climbing. There were both young children and older adults, as well as a heavily pregnant woman scattered about. If they can do it, you certainly can too! The trail starts out wide at the base, but narrows the father you climb, making it harder to pass groups of people. Patience is a virtue here. At the bottom (or start) of the trail, there is a small botanical garden, restrooms, water fountains, and a small gift shop. Accordingly to the interwebs, the trail is 1.7 miles, but my watch tracked a little over 2 miles from the base to the top and back. There is little-to-no shade coverage, minus the 225 foot lighted tunnel, which offers a nice reprieve from the sun, closer to the top of the trail.

Throughout the trail, there are several stopping and lookout points that offer views of Waikiki and of the crater itself. Once you reach the top, you’ll also stumble across several abandoned WW2 bunkers and radio stations.

*Note: reservations are required for non-residents and the guards do not care about any sad story you might offer. This includes reservations for parking too. There is a small parking lot located outside the one-way tunnel that takes you into the parking (for a small fee), but it’s very cut-throat to get a space here. If you forgot to reserve parking, there are several free parking spots just outside the park, along the road – if you don’t mind adding an extra mile to your walk. If you are visiting from downtown Waikiki, there are trolly buses that will drop you off and pick you up at designated times. Park entry: $5 per person. Parking reservation: $10 per vehicle. The trail is open from 6 am with the last entry at 4:30 pm. Plan to visit in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid heat exhaustion and the crowds.

Koko Arch Trail – 0/10 would not recommend. If you’re familiar with fake news, then the idea of “fake trails” won’t be that uncommon to you either. The interwebs would lead you to believe that the trail is not only easy to locate but easily to navigate too. This couldn’t be father from the truth. There is no official trail, not are there any markers to indicate where the “trail” begins. You can part at Halona Blowhole/Cove, then walk west on the shoulder of the road until you see a cluster of rocks you can climb. Unless you are specifically looking for the arch, you could easily miss it.

You will traverse the lava rock until you come to the natural arch in the side of the mountain. If you’re brave enough to attempt this climb (it’s more of a climb than a casual stroll), be forewarned that the closer you get to the arch, the steeper the include becomes. At one point it felt like I was scaling the side of a mountain with a 45 degree incline. The climb is steep and strenuous, especially in the dryer months when the surrounding rock and sand is loose. Make sure to wear appropriate hiking/climbing shoes and wear lots of sunscreen – the entire climb is unshaded.

We made it 100 feet from the arch before giving up. You should also be cautious of the wind, which could easily knock you over and sending you tumbling to the bottom of the mountain.

Halona Beach Cove & Halona Blow Hole – Once you’ve expended yourself climbing the Koko Arch Trail, return to the carpark and the hidden gem of Halona Beach Cove and Blow Hole. For those feeling less venturous, there is a lookout point where you can see the blow hole from the comfort of the car park. If you’re not too tired from the climb to and from the arch, there is a makeshift staircase made from lava rocks that will take you down to the beach.

The beach is quaint and the current is strong here – swim at your own risk. For those interested in getting close to the blow hold, there are rocks you can climb to the left of the ocean. The rocks are slippery and, depending on the current, you’ll have to wait until the water recedes to make it to the rocks without soaking your shoes. After a bit of climbing on the rocks, there is a white tree stump that serves as the marker for the blow hole.

It’s quite a spectacle to see and occurs when the waves crash against the rocks. Back at the beach, also known as “Eternity Beach” because the sand sparkles in the sunlight, there is a lava tube to the right of the staircase. If you’re not claustrophobic, you can travel the length of the tube. It’s dark and the ceilings are low, but there is also a bright light guiding you to the other end with a small opening large enough to fit an animal.

The tunnel is 75-100 feet long and takes 5 minutes to travel from one end to the other and takes you directly under the mountain. Enter at your own risk.

Manoa Falls Trail – Off the beaten path, the Manoa Falls trail is located at the end/back of a residential neighborhood with a private entrance. At the start of the trail is a parking lot ($7 parking fee), small shop, and restrooms. A great place to pick up snacks or refill your water before your hike.

Offering picturesque views of the Hawaiian forest, the trail is 2.06 miles roundtrip (1.03 miles one way), with an elevation of 633 feet. This trail is a perfect way to start or end your day.While, there are plenty of rocks and minor inclines, this trail is perfect for easy to moderate hikers. Walking shoes is highly recommended.

At the end of the trail, visitors will stumble upon a 150 foot waterfall with an even smaller swimming hole. *At the time of our visit, the swimming hole and surrounding area was closed for restoration. But we were still able to walk up to the waterfall. To the left of the waterfall is an additional trail for advanced hikers.

Koko Crater Railway Trailhead – Because I am a glutton for punishment, our last hike of the trip was the Koko Crater Railway. Located east of Waikiki, at the Koko Head District Park, the trail is comprised of 1,000 “steps” (or old railway tracks used for bringing supplies to military outlook posts during WW2).

With an elevation gain of 885 feet, the trail is very popular amongst locals and tourists alike offering views of downtown Waikiki and the Koko Head Crater. The trail itself is 1.6 miles roundtrip is mostly in direct sunlight. Much like driving a car, climbers stick to the right of the trail and descenders stick to the left. For those of you like myself who can barely walk 10 feet without needing a break, there are areas to step off the path into the brush if you need to catch your breath. There is one section, Murphy’s Pass, where the earth gives way and you’re climbing the “steps” with nothing underneath to support you. It’s easier to climb this section going up, and there is an alternative path to the side for those feeling less adventurous.

Also known as the “Stairs of Doom”, the climb is steep, especially the closer you get to the top. Hiking shoes and/or running shoes is a must and don’t be afraid to climb the stairs like a ladder in the areas that are most steep. The trail is open from sunrise-sunset and maintained by volunteers. There is limited shade, so wear plenty of sunscreen and bring lots of water with you. Try to avoid the trail after a rainfall as the steps can be slippery. A lot of locals use the top as a picnic spot – plan to spend 1.5 to 2 hours here. The views are totally worth for the strain!

Pearl Harbor Memorial – For those normal people who don’t like to spend their hard-earned vacation time hiking and climbing, the island of Oahu has plenty else to offer its visitors. The most popular tourist attraction being the Pearl Harbor Memorial.

With an average of 4-6,000 visitors daily, the memorial and historic sites are broken into five sections: the national memorial, USS Arizona Memorial, USS Bowfin Memorial, the USS Memorial, and the Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum. Open between the hours of 7am – 5 pm, with the last entry at 3:30 pm, Pearl Harbor and Historic Sites takes visitors through the history of World War 2 and the Cold War. There is a $7 parking fee and visitors are not allowed to bring in bags of any sorts; you can leave it in your car or check it at their lockers for a small fee. To tour all five historic sites, you should plan to spend 5-6 hours here. All inclusive packages are available for those interested in visiting each of the historic sites.

USS Arizona Memorial – Unlike the other tours, the USS Arizona, surrounding gardens, and museum(s) are free. Tours begin at 8 am. While reservations are not required, and the standby lane moves quickly, you can reserve your tour for $5 per person + a processing fee. This guarantees your visit to the memorial at a specified time. The tour starts in a small movie theater, where you will view a short 10-minute video taking you through the history of the attach on Pearl Harbor, followed by a boat shuttle which takes you from the visitors center to the memorial. Each tour is allotted 45 minutes on the memorial before being whisked back to shore.

The memorial is situated above the sunken USS Arizona, where only the stern is visible above the harbor’s water. On the back wall of the memorial, the name of every soldier who gave their lives on December 7th, 1941 is listed in alphabetical order followed by their ranking. The atmosphere is emotional – please be mindful of others and of the families of the soldiers come to pay their respect.

There are additional markers in the harbor to show where the USS Nevada and USS Oklahoma also sank. No food or drink is allowed at the memorial and limited photography is allowed – the surrounding area is still an active military base.

USS Bowfin Memorial – Also visible from the harbor, the retired WW2 submarine, the USS Bowfin, sits docked and available to tour. To visit the Bowfin and Pacific Fleet Submarine Museum, you must purchase a separate ticket. Single tickets are $22 per person (of $12 per child). Tours of the submarine begin at 8 am, with entrance to the museum starting at 7 am.

The museum takes visitors through the history of submarines during Word War 2 and the Cold War. Also known as the “Silent Service”, the museum has something for everyone – artifacts, kid sections with books and a playground, multi-media, interactive displays, etc. Free audio tours are available in seven different languages – plan to spend 1.5 to 2 hours between the museum and the USS Bowfin itself. Just outside the museum is a shaded area with restrooms, a gift shop, and food truck.

The tour of the Bowfin begins on the main deck and takes visitors one level below deck; other decks are blocked from entry for security reasons. Taking you from one end to the other, visitors get to experience life aboard a submarine through the engine room, torpedo room, living quarters, and the control room. This tour is not for claustrophobics – tight squeeze and small hatches.

On the main deck, visitors are granted views of the surrounding harbor and are able to peak at the periscope used too.

USS Battleship Missouri Memorial – Only accessible via shuttle bus (which run every 10-15 minutes), the Battleship Missouri also requires a separate ticket. General admission, $34 per person ($17.50 per child), includes a free guided tour by retired veterans, or self-guided tours are available in four languages. *Special tours are available for additional purchase. Tours run 8 am – 4 pm.

Visible from the USS Arizona Memorial, the USS Battleship Missouri is located on Fort Island, which is still an active military base. Visitors are allowed on the main deck, command center/bridge, and one deck below. Here, visitors can witness life aboard a battleship from the living quarters and the kitchens and galley, to medical services, officers quarters, and post office.

Throughout the ship, visitors are taken through the history of the USS Missouri starting from its commission, through World Wars 1 & 2, to its decomission in 1992. There is a special dedication on the “surrender deck” in which Japan surrendered and WW2 officially ended with the signing of the peace treaty. Without intending to, we visited 78 years to the day when the treaty was signed.

The ship is massive, even with limited access to a few areas. You should plan 1.5 to 2 hours on board. In the surrounding area, visitors will also find food vendors, restrooms, and a small gift shop too. We stopped here for lunch before venturing to the Aviation museum. Say what you will about food trucks, the fish tasted fresh and we grabbed some ole’ fashioned Dip N’ Dots while waiting for the next shuttle.

Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum – Also located on Fort Island, and only accessible by shuttle, the Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum takes visitors through 75 years of Pacific aviation history. Starting with the attack on Pearl Harbor, visitors can tour 441 acres of land with several hangers and a flight simulator, for an additional fee. Separate tickets required – $26 per person, $15 per child.

After viewing an 11 minute informational video, visitors can take a self-guided tour throughout the various hangers – free audio tours are also available. Planes, helicopters, fire trucks, etc. are located throughout the property, both inside and on the tarmac too. On site, visitors also have access to a cafe, restrooms, and a gift shop.

For an additional fee, visitors can also take the Tower tour, which offers scenic views of the Pearl Harbor battlefield, and learn more about the iconic Ford Island Control Tower. Visitors should plan to spend 1 to 2 hours at the aviation museum.

Dole Plantation – Located 40 minutes west of Waikiki, the Dole Plantation is an excellent place to visit for everyone, including families with children of all ages. On site, visitors can enjoy a train ride through pineapple fields, navigate the world’s largest maze, and wander through botanical gardens. *Note: separate tickets required for each activity with combo tickets available for purchase. Plan to spend 2-3 hours here, depending on which ticket package and on-site activities.

Tour start at 9:30 am and last until 5:30 pm. To avoid large crowds, and the intensity of the midday sun, the best time(s) to visit are first thing in the morning or late afternoon. The pineapple maze takes visitors through 10,000 square feet. There are eight secret signs throughout. Plan for 45 minutes to an 1 hour for the maze.

We opted not to take the train ride, but visitors are encouraged to start their tour with the Pineapple Express as wait times can get long depending on the crowd(s). The ride takes visitors through pineapple fields and you will learn about the history of James Dole.

The botanical gardens provides visitors with views of indigenous plants and flowers. There are signs throughout with information about each of the plants and the history of Dole founder, James Dole.

Last, but certainly not least, the main building is comprised of a very large gift shop and their Plantation Grille, which offers typical theme-park style foods. There is a separate section where visitors can enjoy Dole whip too. One does not simply visit the Dole Plantation without getting Dole whip.

North Shore Marketplace – A short drive from the Dole Plantation, or an hour’s drive from Waikiki, the North Shore Marketplace is the most widely recognized shopping center on the island of Oahu.

With over 20 stores, from local art and jewelry to high-end stores like Patagonia, Billabong, etc., the North Shore Marketplace stretches over a mile and covers both sides of the street. The main parking lot is located at the start of the shops and makes it easy to park and walk the strip without having to worry about moving your car. There are other places to park along the street and in front of stores, but, depending on the time of day and size of the crowds, it’s less hassle to park and walk from one end to the other. The shopping area opens at 7 am, but most shops themselves don’t open until 10/11 am.

Most of the stores are not cheap. Along the strip, visitors will find plenty of restaurants and food trucks, public restrooms, and places to stop and people watch. For those who enjoy shopping, one could easily spend half a day here, if not longer. To avoid the most crowds, the best time to visit is early morning or late afternoon.

Haleiwa Seafood and Grill Truck – You know the saying, “when in Rome, do as the Romans do”? Well, the same can be said for eating in Hawaii. If you’re not eating seafood for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, you’re doing it wrong. One of the many food trucks located in North Shore Marketplace, we stopped at Haleiwa Seafood for lunch.

Waimea Valley, Falls, and Gardens – Our main reason for visiting the west side of the island was to attend one of the lesser populated luau’s the island has to offer. The luau we picked just so happened to be located next to Waimea Valley, Falls, and Gardens, with free entrance with the purchase of the luau ticket. Tickets to just the falls and gardens run $25 per person, $14 per child, with senior and/or student discounts available. At the front entrance, visitors will find the Kikoni Bar, Hale Kope Coffee House and Grill, and a small gift shop.

Without getting ahead of myself, prior to the luau, we spent the early afternoon visiting the Waimea Valley, which included botanical gardens and a waterfall. Located an hour west of Waikiki, Waimea Valley is a great place to get away from the influx of tourists who have surely taken over the island at this point.

The trail throughout the gardens to the waterfall is 3/4 mile and takes about 30 minutes without stopping. Visitors could easily spend hours here transversing through the various paths, gardens, cultural sites, etc.. For those just interested in the waterfall, the path is entirely paved and there is a shuttle take will take you back and forth.

The falls are located at the end of the paved road. Just before the waterfall is a small visitors center with snacks, restrooms, and changing stations. For those interested in swimming, life jackets are required (and provided) and there are lifeguards on duty too. There is also a covered sitting/viewing area to the right of the swimming hole. The rocks in the swimming hole are incredibly slippery – water shoes are highly recommended. During the summer and hotter months, wait times can exceed an hour with lines extending down the trail itself. The water is moderately cold, but quickly warmed by the sun. A refreshing dip after walking the trails!

Toa Luau – There is no shortage of luaus on the island of Oahu, and most are much closer to Honolulu and Waikiki. Without sounding biased, but at the same time being entirely biased, Toa Luau is the best choice. Family owned and operated, Toa Luau comes highly recommended from travelers all over the United States. Located an hour west of Waikiki and conveniently located within Waimea Valley, Toa Luau is a family-friendly once in a lifetime experience.

Each showing lasts three hours, with daily showtimes at 12:30 pm and 5 pm. *Note: the 12:30 pm showtime has the possibility of noise and onlookers from Waimea Falls and Gardens whereas the 5 pm showing begins after the valley closes. Guests are greeted with live music and leis and are individually led to their seats. There are three package types: Silver ($115 pp), Gold ($145 pp), and VIP (175 pp). The price increase guarantees that you sit closer to the stage with additional drink tickets. The luau begins with lawn games such as Hawaiian-Hula dancing, leaf crown, coconut opening, and traditional luau food preparation demonstration.

Shortly thereafter, guests return to their seats and are engaged in the opening ceremony and blessing of the food. The dinner itself is buffet style, but the plates are brought to you fully loaded since the onset of COVID-19. No need to fear, if one plate is not enough, you can ask for as many as you’d like. Our table-mate took full advantage of this! You are seated with 8 other couples – a nice way to meet other visitors.

After dinner, the real luau begins. The show is incredible and provides guests with a unique cultural experience of dancing, costumes, and traditions across history and the Polynesian islands. The performers are genuinely happy and put everything into their performances. The staff if friendly, helpful, and accommodating too.

The show ends with an intense fire-dancing sequence and a closing ceremony to wish visitors farewell and safe travels. Toa Luau exceeded our expectations and is well worth the drive and price.

The Byodo-In Temple – After exploring the west coast of Oahu, we spent a day in Northern Oahu, starting with the Byodo-In Temple. Located at the back of a memorial/cemetery, the Byodo-In Temple is a Hawaii state landmark. It offers seclusion from the hustle and bustle of city-life too.

Upon entry ($5 per person onsite or online), there is a large bell you can ring, which makes a loud “gong” sound and can be heard throughout the property. Along the path there is a small koi pond and gardens with a gazebo. With the temple itself being the main attraction.

Visitors must remove their shoes inside the temple. Inside the temple is a replica of the 1,000 year old Byodo-In Temple in Uji, Japan.

On site, visitors will find feral cats, black and white swans, and peacocks. There is also a very small gift shop too. The temple and surrounding gardens are small – plan to spend 30 to 45 minutes here. *Try to arrive early before the property is overrun by tour buses.

Ho’Omaluhia Botanical Gardens – Another popular tourist attraction, and located just down the road from the Byodo-In Temple, the Ho’Omaluhia Botanical Gardens is adequately nicknamed “a peaceful refugee”. Also located at the back of a neighborhood, with entry and parking fees waived, the 400 acres of gardens, trails, and views offer visitors a sense of tranquility found nowhere else on Oahu.

The land is broken into various sections, with trails (10-20 minute walk depending) connecting each, and multiple parking locations throughout. Visitors will also find campsites available, with advanced reservations, and picnic areas too. If you’re looking for a quiet place, away from other tourists, this is the place to come. Most of the gardens are uncovered – bring lots of sunscreen and water. You could easily spend a few hours up to a full day navigating the terrain.

*Note: there are strict rules regarding speed limit, passing other vehicles, and photography of the roadways.

Ko’olau Distillery – A hidden treasure, this veteran owned distillery was a wonderful way to get out of the afternoon sun and decompress from the day’s adventures.

Located in a warehouse – near Oeno Winemaking – the Ko’olau Distillery is off the beaten path. Without knowing about it, you wouldn’t easily stumble across this place. The staff if friendly, knowledgeable, and also retired veterans.

Still in its infancy, the distillery is still finding its name both on Oahu and amongst distillers nationwide. There is a small range drink menu, but larger bottles are also available for purchase. We ordered a flight, which included moonshine 100 proof, whiskey 86 proof, gin, and vodka. Not for the faint of heart! I also ordered a Taro Root cosmopolitan.

The atmosphere is laidback, with tables, couches, and chairs for casual longing. Open during the week from 12 pm – 5 pm, with private tours Monday-Friday 3-4pm. Tours are $90 per person and includes a t-shirt, tasting, and small bottle souvenir.

Kualoa Ranch – Being the good nerds we are, we couldn’t leave Oahu without visiting Kualoa Ranch. Whether you want to visit the sites of popular moves like Jurassic Park, Jurassic World, Jumanji, and King Kiong (to name a few), or take an RTV through the forest, there is no shortage of excursions to satiate your inner nerd at Kualoa Ranch.

You could easily spend your entire day (or your entire vacation) here doing any number or combination of tours the ranch has to offer. Each tour is guided and individually priced. Advanced online reservations are highly recommended. Tours run from 8 am – 6pm. Covering 4,000 acres, the ranch itself has a self-sustaining ecosystems with their own cattle, pigs, chickens, vegetables, and a fish farm too.

We opted for the Jurassic Adventure Tour, which takes guests on a 2.5 hour open-air truck tour to all the iconic film sites In Kualoa, Hakipu’u, and Ka’a’awa Valleys. We were blessed with “Sunshine” as our tour guide. She was charismatic, punny, and bubbly – the right combination of funny and knowledgeable to make the tour entertaining.

In the main building, there are restrooms, Kualoa Grill, and a gift shop. The food is served directly from the cattle and vegetables grown on site. *Note: the Kualoa grill is the only place to eat within the immediate vicinity of the ranch.

Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve – If you want to go snorkeling in Hawaii, but are afraid to go too far out on the coast, the Hanauma Bay State Park is the perfect solution. This preserve is a protected marine life conversation park, with its own set of rules and regulations. Open year round, Wednesday – Sunday, with last entry at 1:30 pm.

Located 13 minutes from Koko Crater Trail, this scenic spot is a great place to relax on the beach and get up close and personal with marine life. Reservations are required (tickets go fast!!) – up to 48 hours in advance. Hawaiian residents are not required to make a reservation and get priority entrance. Tickets run $25 per person ages 13+ (12 years and younger are not required to purchase a ticket). There is a $3 parking fee for non-residents ($1 for residents). Visitors are allowed to arrive 15 minutes prior to their booking time, with no time limit to how long they can stay. The beach is cleared 1 hour before closing time.

Upon entry, with a valid photo ID matching the names on your tickets – they check on multiple occasions – visitors are given a pre-orientation greeting. Then you are shown a 10 minute informational video about the history of Hanauma Bay and the rules of the park. Visitors must wear reef safe sunscreen and shoes. Touching the coral and other marine life is strictly forbidden. Here visitors will find restrooms, a small cafe, changing rooms, and a gift shop. Outside food and drink is allowed, but you must pick up your trash or pay a hefty fine. At the bottom of the hill, visitors can rent lockers and snorkel gear. There are outside showers and lifeguards on duty too.

Despite the rules and regulations, the visit is well worth it. There is an abundance of ocean life, including sea turtles and seals (an endangered species). I would highly recommend bringing a waterproof camera to capture the seal life.

Other things to do on Oahu – Even with eight days, there was still so much to do on the island of Oahu. Here is a list of other activities across the island that made our list, but we either spent little time there or didn’t get to visit at all.

Kualoa Beach: Located 5 minutes from Kualoa Rach, with several beach access points and a lifeguard on duty, this quaint beach is a quiet retreat from more of the popular beaches closer to Waikiki. The beach also offers clear views of “Chinaman’s Hat” – a small island visitors can swim or kayak too.

Tropical Farms Macadamia Nuts – Also a stone’s throw from Kualoa Ranch, a quaint farmer’s market with artisans, jewelry makers, and, of course, macadamia nuts. The macadamia nuts booth offers a variety of flavors that you can try before you buy, and shipping options.

Makapu’u Beach Park – East from Maka’pu Lighthouse, the Makapu’u Beach park is secluded spot to spend a few hours on the beach and in the water. There is a life guard on duty and the current is strong – avoid visiting on a windy day. Small parking lot, restrooms, and outside showers available.

Sandy Beach Park – Just down the road from Halona Cave, this beach is a wonderful oasis from the much crowded Waikiki Beach a few miles down the road. There are life guards on duty, restrooms, showers, and changing stations. You should also avoid visiting on a windy day when the current is too strong to wade into the waters.

Turtle Bay/Beach – This is a beautiful, secluded beach located outside Turtle Bay Resort. It’s a bit of a hike to get away from the resort and other tourists. Unfortunately, all of our plans were quickly wiped away upon losing my wedding rings in the sand. Let’s just say that it was a growing and learning experience for our marriage and both of us walked away with new insights. After 6 hours of searching and the people with a metal detector at the Ring Finders, we found my rings. I also made a friend – he’s sleeping, not dead.

Other Notable Attractions:

If none of the aforementioned places pique your interest, here is a list of other things to do on Oahu

Places to Eat:

Ono Steaks and Shrimp Shack – After our hike at Makapu’u Point and Lighthouse, we were ravished. Luckily, we stumbled across this gem roughly 10 minutes from the lighthouse. With indoor and outdoor seating, the food is fresh and delicious! And don’t be fooled by the place’s looks either. Plates range from $12-$16 and comes with rice and potato salad.

*Note: There is a large homeless population in the area and the speed limit is 25-35 mph. This area is highly regulated by police too.

Poke for the People – On our way to North Shore, we stopped for a mid-morning snack. Poke bowls are a staple on the island, for locals and visitors alike.

With chipotle-style service (pick a base, protein, toppings, etc.), fresh ingredients, and multiple portion size options, this was the best way to start our shopping spree in North Shore. Located in a small shopping plaza at the start of the shops, this is a popular spot for take-aways. Open 10 am – 4 pm.

Just like our other experiences with food trucks in Hawaii, the fish tasted fresh and was cooked to perfection. Each meal comes with a small salad and a scoop of white rice. The staff wasn’t particularly friendly, but it was easy to look past it with the quick service. Both dine-in and take-away options available. There are shaded picnic tables and minimal parking spots shared by the various food trucks parked at this location. We ordered the coconut crusted mahi and fish n’chips.

South Shore Grill – Nestled in the back of a small, suburban neighborhood, with scenic views of Diamond Head, this place is a must! We happened upon this place out of pure chance. About a 15-minute walk from our hotel, this hole in the wall has the best tacos in town, and I really know my tacos. Fairly priced ($12-$15 a meal), each plate comes with rice and macaroni salad. *Note: this is a trend with many restaurants on the island. There is limited seating but the staff is super friendly.

The portion sizes are no joke either. Best to arrive hungry! The menu ranges from tacos and burritos to rice bowls and french fries. The isolated location makes it the perfect spot to take a break from the large crowds in downtown Waikiki.

Eggs N’ Things – This is Hawaii’s version of Denny’s or Perkins. Although a franchise on the island, the food was great. You’ll find that there are many locations strewn about Waikiki. The menu offers both breakfast and food options, although we stopped for breakfast only.

This place gets busy quickly – even more so on the weekends. You can reserve a table ahead through the Yelp or Google Maps apps. The meals are fairly priced (around $15), with a wide variety of options. We both ordered the Crab Cake Benedict and, for an additional fee, my husband stacked on some pancakes too.

Maui Brewing Company – After some drinks at the Ko’olau Distillery, we were in need of an afternoon snack. The Kailua location is a 10-minute drive from the distillery and is tucked into a shopping place. Also a franchise, with several locations across the Hawaiian Islands, the food menu isn’t as extensive as the beer menu. Since it’s a brewing company, this is to be expected. Both indoor and outdoor seating – be mindful of the birds trying to steal your food if you do decide to sit outside.

Following COVID, the Maui Brewing Company has maintained its contactless ordering system with a QR code on the table. When you “add to cart,” your order gets sent to the bar and the kitchen. Even though our main objective was the food, we did enjoy the Pineapple Pana Wheat and Coconut Hiwa Porter. We ordered a side of fries and shared “The Hunter” pizza, which included guava BBQ pork, caramelized pineapple, diced onions, and jalapeños. To dip our fries we ordered a side of ranch. When I say that they had the best homemade ranch dressing in the world, I am not being hyperbolic.

Egghead Cafe – In our haste to leave the hotel and get to the Pearl Harbor Memorial early, we were desperate for a quick-fix for breakfast. Thankfully, there isn’t a bad place to eat on Oahu. Enter: Egghead cafe. Located West of downtown Waikiki, this is a great place to start the day, especially for early risers. Open only for breakfast and brunch (7 am – 1 pm), there are two sides – dine in and take out – with two distinct doors for each entrance. *Note: if you arrive too early, you would be able to enjoy the fresh baked goods, depending on when the baker arrives each morning.

The staff was super friendly, attentive, and helpful in deciding what to eat. The menu is expansive, with daily specials on a chalkboard when you first walk in. We shared a typical American breakfast – eggs, sausage, toast, etc. – with an up charge for splitting the meal. The real draw for this place is the coffee. We enjoyed a caramel latte and a macadamia nut latte. They were *chef’s kiss* delicious – best way to start the day!

Also similar to other restaurants, the menu is contactless with QR codes on each table. This is how you pay your tab as well.

Sushi Spot Waikiki – Located in downtown Waikiki, just 3 blocks from the beach, this is a great spot to fulfill your Sushi needs. While the sushi is expensive compared to what you may be used to on the mainland, this place is actually cheap for the island of Oahu. Open only for dinner (5 – 10:30 pm), with limited indoor and outdoor seating. The outdoor patio is decorated with string lights and umbrellas. The perfect place for date night if you’re looking for a quaint place with ambiance!

The menu has limited options, but includes appetizers and a variety of sushi options. The real kicker is that they use crab with a “C”, not imitation krab with a “K”.

Aloha Kitchen – Voted the #1 breakfast spot in Waikiki, this place is another locals favorite. If you’re not specifically looking for it, you were surely pass it. Due to its popularity, you can expect to wait anywhere from 30 minutes to over an hour. We arrived 15 minutes before they opened and still waited an additional half hour. When you first arrive, be sure to put your name on the waitlist on the table out front. There is no honor system here – first come, first serve!

You’ll have to trust me when I say that the wait is worth it. Hands down, this place has the best Japanese-style souffle pancakes. Aloha Kitchen is also only open for breakfast and brunch (7:30 am – 1 pm), with limited seating. The prices are average for the island ($15-$20 per plate) and the service is fast. If I hadn’t embarrassed myself by knocking over my coffee and breaking both the glass and the table, we would have made this our go-to place for the rest of our stay, but I digress.

Cafe Glace Hawaii – Located along the main strip of shows in downtown Waikiki, this is a great place to visit if you have a sweet-tooth craving. Open all day (7 am – 9 pm), the menu offers a variety of options such as ice cream, gelato, pastries, crepes, etc. *Note: pastries and crepes are not available after a certain time.

Knots Coffee Roasters @ Queen Kapiolani Hotel: By the end of our trip, and since I embarrassed myself too much to step foot in “Aloha Kitchen” again, we resorted to eating breakfast at “Knots Coffee Roasters” located in the hotel lobby. A great place to stop if you are in a hurry with both dine-in and grab n’ go options.

Open daily (6 am – 4 pm) with daily happy hour (2 – 4 pm) too. The menu is eclectic ranging from small breakfast options like yogurt to french toast and cheeseburgers. Indoor and outdoor seating available. The bus transit stop across the street for convenience.

Hula Dog Kuhio – As seen on Anthony Bourdain’s show “No Reservations”, these are no ordinary hotdogs. Located on the east side of downtown Waikiki, this food truck shares space with 4 other food trucks. That includes shared picnic tables (uncovered) too!

There is a step-by-step process to order your hotdog:

Choose your bun
Choose your protein
Choose your sauce – up to 3 included
Choose your tropical relish – traditional options also available
Choose your mustard type – 3 options

I’m pretty sure my husband unhinged his jaw to enjoy this mammoth of a hot dog. Definitely worth it!

Lucky Belly – If you’re in the mood for Asian fusion (Japanese and Chinese), this is the place to go! A twenty minute drive from downtown Waikiki, in the heart of China Town, “Lucky Belly” offers an authentic dining experience. Only open from 5 – 10 pm (or 11 pm Fridays and Saturdays), there is limited seating and no on-site parking. This place books fast! You can reserve a table through Google Maps or OpenTable.

With a wide variety of menu options, and daily specials, “Lucky Belly” offers something for everyone. We shared two appetizers and each ordered Ramen too. The food was so good, that I still ask my husband if we can fly back just to eat here for dinner.

Liliha Bakery – The only place we went back twice! For anyone with a sweet-tooth, this is the best place to go. If you’re staying in downtown Waikiki, there are several Liliha bakeries within walking distance. We happened upon this place looking for a sweet night-cap after our delicious dinner at “Lucky Belly”. In addition to the bakery, there is also a full-scale restaurant too.

Best known for their cream puffs, the bakery menu is extensive. Cakes, cupcakes, muffins, scones, turnovers, cookies – you name it, they have it. Each item is priced individually, so the price can add up quickly. We may have gone a little overboard with our orders and some didn’t even make it back to the hotel!

Off the Wall: Craft Beer and Wine – If you’re looking for a place off the beaten path, “Off the Wall” offers a unique dining experience. Located in Honolulu, west of Waikiki, and part of the South Shore Market (small indoor shopping mall), this is a great place to go on the weekends. Open late, and with live music, “Off the Wall” is a great place to relax and unwind from the day.

Upon being seated, you are given a card to insert in the tap before pouring your drink. The card tracks the number of ounces poured – you pay by ounce instead of by drink. There are a variety of different craft beers on tap as well as wine and seltzer.

The food menu is exquisite too. You might find grilled cheese and fried calamari on any bar menu, but these take the cake! We thoroughly enjoyed sharing a five-cheese blend grilled cheese with pork adobo, roasted garlic aioli, on parmesan-crusted sourdough and fried calamari with brava sauce and cilantro garlic aioli. It was the perfect ending to our beach day!

Leonard’s Bakery – Another staple of Hawaiian life. You cannot visit Oahu with stopping by Leonard’s Bakery. There are several locations, including food trucks, strewn throughout the island. Established in 1952, Leonard’s is open daily from 5:30 am – 7 pm. There is no seating available – you order and pay inside, then wait patiently outside until your number is called at the pickup window. There is limited parking out front of the store front location in East Waikiki.

Leonard’s offers a variety of bakery items but are most widely known for their Heir Malasadas, or Portuguese donuts, which are available with three different types of sugar: original (plain sugar), cinnamon sugar, or gilled (guava and coconut, to name a few). They are best when eaten warm! *Note: if you want to try the pastries, you must go earlier in the day. Only the malasadas are available in the afternoons and evenings.

Oahu Mexican Grill – Also known as O.M.G., Oahu Mexican Grill is located on Kalakaua Avenue (2nd floor), directly across the street from Waikiki Beach. With Chipotle-style service, diners pick their base, meat, beans, toppings, etc. The portion sizes are large and very filling.

The best part were the margarita slushes -available in 16 ounces or 32 ounces with to-go options too. Even if you don’t go for the food, it’s definitely worth stopping by for the drinks!

HanaPa’a Market – By far the best poke bowl on the island! Located in a strip mall, and just a stone’s throw from the Koko Crater trail, this hidden gem was the perfect spot after a grueling hike. The staff was super friendly, and very helpful in choosing what to pick. The menu offers a variety of options such as plates ,poke bowls, salads, etc., and you can buy fresh fish by the pound too.

If you like tobacco sauce, you should ask for the “chili water”. We were told that it’s used as a chaser with beer by the locals.

Kona Brewing Company – If you’re a fan of Kona beer, this is the spot for you! This popular spot is a 5-minute drive from Hanauma Bay; the perfect place for an afternoon drink after the beach. Caution: wait times can last up to 2 hours! *Note: the actual brewery is located on the Big Island.

We were very excited to spend a few hours here relaxing and enjoying the brews, but the food menu was less than desirable. Your typical American bar food – pizzas, tacos, burgers, etc. We ordered the bruschetta for an appetizer, but eventually left to grab a full meal elsewhere.

Both indoor and outdoor seating available, with views of the bay and mountains outside. There is a small gear shop on premise as well. If all you’re looking for is a place for brews, their happy hour offers $2 off draft beers and half-priced apps.

Angry Shrimp – There is certainly no shortage of food trucks on Oahu. Located directly next to Hula Dog Kuhio and Five Star Poke, this is a great place to enjoy fresh and fried shrimp. Each plate comes with rice and a side salad. Limited food menu with al la carte options too.